Stars of the South
Take it from an American travelling around New Zealand, Kiwis are spoilt with landscapes that are totally unspoilt, writes Ashley Ellington Brown
The best way to describe Lake Tekapo? Transcendent. Practically every moment of my visit there was the very definition of the word: surpassing the ordinary, exceptional. Believe it or not, that started with the InterCity bus ride from Picton to Christchurch.
My Gold ticket gave me a comfy front-row seat for the spectacular scenery along the route, which mostly follows the Pacific coast: deep blue ocean, black sand and rocky beaches, cows peacefully grazing by the shore, and the majestic Southern Alps in the distance.
We stopped for tea in Kaiko¯ ura, a cute town with great whale-watching. To stretch my legs I headed towards the beach. After crossing a footbridge, I stopped with my mouth open at the view: a curve of dark grey rocks lapped by aqua waves and framed by the Seaward Kaiko¯ ura Range, rising dramatically out of the ocean against a brilliant blue sky. Incredible.
And there were even more incredible experiences to come.
We continued past several of New Zealand’s braided rivers — streams of ice-blue water flowing from the Alps that weave together on their way to the sea — then arrived in Christchurch, where I spent the night before taking the short (three-hour) bus trip to Lake Tekapo.
That first sight of the lake is breathtaking. It’s a vast expanse of the most intense turquoise colour, surrounded by green hills and snowcapped mountain peaks. Dropping my bags at the YHA Tekapo, now called Haka House, which was perfectly located in the heart of the tiny town, I walked to the water.
I practically had the place to myself. The lake shimmered in the sun, wind blew gently through the trees, birds chirped, and puffy clouds scudded across the sky. Although a handful of buildings are strung along the shore, they’re thoughtfully designed and the area feels wonderfully unspoiled. There was a palpable sense of tranquillity.
I had chosen to visit Lake Tekapo because of the stargazing (it’s part of the country’s largest Dark Sky Reserve) but this sensation and the amazing beauty had already made the trip worthwhile. Perhaps I sound like a broken record, but again I thought how lucky Kiwis are to have such astonishing places all around them.
I picked my way over rocks to the pristine water to dip my toes in — icy — then walked to the Church of the Good Shepherd, a small stone chapel that has stood on the shore since 1935 and is one of the most photographed churches in the country.
Next, I strolled in the other direction along a pretty lakefront path to Tekapo Springs, where I lounged in a thermal pool. While the one with the best view of the lake wasn’t open, the hot water was soothing.
Afterwards, I enjoyed a delicious dinner with a view (and glass of fabulous NZ wine, of course) then went back to Haka House. It’s an excellent place to stay — prime location, friendly staff, clean and comfortable public spaces including a balcony and terrace facing the water, and rooms with lake views.
This YHA illustrated yet another difference between NZ and the US: youth hostels here are substantially nicer. Especially if you get a private room with en suite bath, they’re fantastic options for adults — even those used to a bit of luxury. And not only are they less expensive than most hotels, but you also get access to a kitchen and common areas. I took advantage of that and sipped a mug of tea while I waited for dark. Although I could have booked a guided stargazing tour with the Dark Sky Project, the weather forecast was uncertain and I didn’t want to risk the money. I figured I’d be able to see the stars on my own if I got lucky with a clear sky — and boy, did I.
The temperature had dropped so I put on multiple layers, a hat and gloves, then walked to a picnic table by the lake. I lay down on top with my travel towel over me for some extra warmth.
The view was mind-blowing. Thousands of stars twinkled all the way to the horizon on every side. Satellites crossed slowly overhead. I could see the Milky Way in vivid detail, and it took my breath away.
The inky black night was silent and serene. As I sank into the stillness, I was overcome by a feeling of deep peace and connection — to Earth, to the sky, to the universe. To myself.
Then: magic. A shooting star. And another, and another. I made wishes and then just lay there, soaking in the absolute wonder of it all. As I said, transcendent.
The next day I headed back to Christchurch, the final stop of my Aotearoa adventure.
Thousands of stars twinkled all the way to the horizon on every side. Satellites crossed slowly overhead. I could see the Milky Way in vivid detail, and it took my breath away.