Wheely wonderful
New Zealand may be small, but with enough nous, you can get off the well-beaten track on your next home-on-wheels trip, writes Sarah Bennett
Since I last wrote about campervanning for Herald Travel, Lee and I have traded up from a Hiace camper to a caravan. Besides the new challenge of reversing it in front of onlookers, it’s pretty much same-same, except there’s a better chance of keeping our marriage sweet.
What hasn’t changed is our love of heading off the beaten track, although I’ve come to see this as somewhat of a state of mind. Unless you’ve got oodles of time and an off-road rig, there’s only so far you can go. Fortunately, the majority of New Zealand campsites offer a decent level of disconnection, plus ready access to more remote places by foot, bike or kayak.
Here are a few more of our favourite places to turn on, tune in and drop out.
Kapowairua/Spirits Bay, Northland
Although a procession of people beat the path to Te Reinga Wairua/Cape Reinga, few trickle down the side roads to nearby wonders such as Ninety Mile Beach and Te Paki’s giant dunes.
Sixteen kilometres of gravel road is enough to deter most from visiting Kapowairua/Spirits Bay, a spacious DoC reserve with unpowered sites, many nestled into wee nooks and small stands of trees. There’s little more here than potable water and toilets, so this is back-to-basics camping with a faraway cove vibe.
Clarks Beach, South Auckland
Just an hour’s drive southwest of Auckland, Clarks Beach Holiday Park is a Kiwi classic. Although still within sight of the Sky Tower, it nevertheless feels a world away thanks to the peaceful, salty surrounds of Manukau Harbour.
Low-key attractions include birdwatching or down-home golf. Clarks Beach also makes a great base to explore A¯ whitu Regional Park, cloaking the peninsula at Manukau Heads.
Tolaga Bay, Taira¯ whiti/East Coast
Big ups to the roadworkers who have secured our safe passage along the East Coast highway, a touring route much loved for its blend of historic sites and small-town hospitality sprinkled along the glittering Pacific coast. This is an awesome region for camping, with Tolaga Bay Holiday Park a particular fave for its historic wharf and nearby walk to magical Cook’s Cove. Iwi-owned and welcoming to wha¯ nau from home and abroad, it offers a chance to get to know this place and its people. (Note: closed for a spruce-up from April to September.)
O¯ akura Beach Holiday Park, Taranaki
All hail the long way round, like Surf Highway 45 which serves up rural Taranaki scenery alongside striking views of the maunga, should the weather allow. Side roads lead to mostly wild and quiet beaches, with O¯ akura a bit more buzzy and just a 15-minute drive from New Plymouth.
As the village has boomed, O¯ akura Beach Holiday Park has stayed true to its roots. Familyfocused with a wide range of facilities, it sports various camping zones all within easy access of the waves and bush walks.
Castlepoint Holiday Park, Wairarapa
A bach settlement an hour’s drive from Masterton, Castlepoint’s lighthouse, crazy limestone landforms and lagoon will leave you breathless. It’s a wild reminder of just how
geologically weird and wonderful Aotearoa is.
Castlepoint Holiday Park is situated on the sandy, windswept beach. Powered sites are spread across its seafront, nooks and terraces, offering relatively sheltered camping with the bonus of a lighthouse view, watersports and walking, with the hike up Castle Rock the mustdo for the fleet of foot.
Cable Bay, Nelson
Half an hour’s drive from town, Cable Bay is a sleepy cove offering simple pleasures such as swimming, kayaking and the clifftop Cable Bay walkway. It’s also a skip and a jump to Cable Bay Adventure Park, which has mountain bike trails, a climbing wall, tame eels and an epic flying fox.
Cable Bay Holiday Park is a delightful wee beachside camp. As well as nice grassy sites and essential facilities, it sports friendly hosts who will happily advise on farm walks and plug you into Cable Bay’s fascinating industrial history.
Riverside Holiday Park, Murchison
There’s way more to Murchison than a pitstop for pies and petrol. Situated amid many great rivers and reserves, it easily justifies a longer stay not least of all for the family-friendly white-water rafting and kayaking for which it is renowned.
Ten minutes’ walk from town, Riverside Holiday Park stretches over 16ha of Buller River/ Kawatiri riverbank. Camp here to discover this epic river’s pulling power, readily revealed from the rockpools that offer good views and a safe place to take the plunge.
Ross Beach Top 10, West Coast
A lesser-known West Coast highway stop-off, Ross Beach Top 10 is an inspiring spot to soak up salt and sunsets. It also marks the southern end of the wonderful West Coast Wilderness Trail and is just a 10-minute bike ride to old Ross gold town.
Big surf, driftwood and harakeke give this park an unmistakable West Coast feel. Add in snazzy facilities such as a barbecue hut, wood-fired pizza takeaway and spa pool, and you’ve got a holiday destination that could keep you here a week.
Waitaki Lakes, Waitaki Valley
Down in southern hydro-lake country are Benmore, Aviemore and Waitaki, three gloriously blue waterways with elegant industrial architecture giving them gravitas. Spread along their shores are a bunch of basic, council-managed campsites suitable for selfcontained types and popular with long-staying Kiwi boaties.
The Alps to Ocean Cycle Trail wends its way beside the waterways. The new Sailor’s Cutting section has emerged as one of New Zealand’s best day rides, so check out the camps near O¯ tema¯ ta¯ ta¯ so you can park and ride.
O¯ makau Domain, Central Otago
A stop that’s on both the Otago Central Rail Trail and Central Otago Touring Route, O¯ makau is well-versed in welcoming visitors. Of note is its historic pub, where the upsell could be a meat raffle ticket but, hey, who doesn’t want to support our rural fire brigades?
The public domain is a classic combo of campground, playground and sports field, with a lovely nine-hole golf course out back. Along with a bunch of powered and unpowered sites, it has ship-shape facilities and a friendly reception office where local travel advice is likely to be offered.