Turning pain into inspiration
In the final part of our series, US writer Ashley Ellington Brown finds boutique luxury, artsy wine flights and a resilient spirit in Christchurch
Christchurch was full of memorable moments. First, a luxurious night at a boutique hotel: the Classic Villa. A restored Italianate villa from 1899, this posh refuge was a marvellous introduction to the original part of the city.
I arrived on Friday evening, and a magical-looking historic complex across the street beckoned me over: the old University of Canterbury, now the Arts Centre. Walking through an ornate stone arch, I found myself in a courtyard filled with interesting sculptures, twinkling lights and people mingling and drinking wine. Turns out it was the opening night of an art exhibition.
Not wanting to crash the open bar, I crossed the courtyard and discovered the Cellar Door, a cosy restaurant filled with the happy buzz of people enjoying exceptional food, wine and conversation.
I lucked out with an open seat at the bar and super-friendly service. The huge wine menu had all sorts of unusual wine flights; I chose “Witchcraft and Wizardry”, which featured biodynamic local wines (including the most delicious sparkling rose´ , which I promptly ordered a full glass of).
The couple next to me struck up a conversation about their multiple epic visits to the US. I was amazed to hear they’d gone to places like West Virginia — not usually on the international radar. Their remarkable stories included things I hadn’t heard of, like “flat-foot dancing”. It was fun to learn something about American culture from Kiwis.
Then the conversation turned to politics. They knew so much about the US Government and history, I felt ashamed that I couldn’t name even one NZ leader. I’d been following local elections, however, and could at least ask some semi-intelligent questions about that.
After a sublime apple tarte tatin, it was time to go. (But first I bought a bottle of the rose´ .)
The next day, I explored more of the Arts Centre’s treasures: museums, galleries, shops, cafes — even a cinema. It’s such a wonderful reimagining of a historic space. I especially enjoyed the fascinating exhibit about Lord Rutherford, the father of nuclear physics. As I ascended the worn wooden steps to the restored Victorian lecture hall, I envisioned all the students who had filled that space with curiosity and ambition. It was quite inspiring.
It was also inspiring to see the efforts made there and across the city to rebuild after the terrible 2011 earthquake.
While I deal with the threat of hurricanes in Florida, the unpredictability of earthquakes seems much more terrifying to me. I’ll admit I was somewhat on edge while in Christchurch, which brought home to me how brave locals are. Living with that uncertainty day after day takes a particular kind of courage.
For the remainder of my (too short) stay I moved to Breakfree on Cashel, a great inexpensive option that’s centrally located (and a popular hotel for teams headed to the Antarctic, which was pretty cool to see).
I wandered all around the city, from the moving Cathedral Square to the bustling Riverside Market, the peaceful Avon River and the beautiful Botanic Gardens. I had a fantastic lunch there at the Curators House, sitting on the porch to absorb the sunshine and lovely view.
Afterward, I set off through the gorgeous gardens, relishing the signs of spring and vivid pinks, purples, reds and yellows everywhere. The flowering wisteria and giant azalea trees were especially stunning.
Then I spotted an oversized armchair and ottoman covered in colourful mosaic swirls. Titled Flora and Otto, the sculpture’s patterns were made from heirloom dishes shattered during the earthquake. What an incredible statement of resilience, to take the broken bits of such meaningful items and create something exquisite, turning pain into inspiration. One of the very best uses of art, I think. Having been through the hurricane recovery process, I know a little about devastation and the enormous amount of energy and courage it takes to not just survive but thrive afterward. I felt that spirit everywhere in Christchurch.
Then it was time to leave, though once again, I hadn’t done all I’d wanted.
I was flying first to Auckland and then to Houston, so my check-in at Christchurch Airport was a little complicated. But of course, I received outstanding service. An extremely helpful Air New Zealand agent walked me through the automated process and personally checked my overweight bags, tagging them as “fragile” to keep my wine safe. I felt positively coddled.
After an on-time flight to Auckland and an astonishingly good airport panini, I boarded the non-stop flight home. I’d been dreading this 11-hour journey, but it “flew by” thanks to the comfortable seat, excellent food and entertainment, and attentive crew. While I didn’t have a legendary Skycouch, I did get lucky with an empty neighbouring seat: a final gift from amazing Aotearoa New Zealand. I hope to return one day for more extraordinary experiences.