TAUPO¯: WHAT A CATCH!
Mike Yardley plunges into the attractions this huge inland sea, the town and its surrounds have to offer
LUXURIATING IN THE HEART of Lake Taupo¯, on board a private fishing charter with Chris Jolly Outdoors, the bright spring sunshine had cast the great lake in a deep shade of oceanic blue, as the water glinted like freshly cut diamonds.
The immensity of this inland sea, which encompasses the size of Singapore, transfixed me as much as the wrapround totems to a deep and dramatic history.
The mighty snow-capped peaks of the volcanic plateau brooded on the horizon and Motutaiko Island seemingly floated in the middle of the lake like a mirage.
I was lost in the reverie of this storied landscape, while trying my hand at landing a fish. It had been a long time between drinks, given the last time I had caught a fish was on Akaroa Wharf as a 10-year-old when I managed to bag myself a dog fish. But I was in the best of hands because the Jolly family are synonymous with trout fishing in Taupo¯, ever since launching their outdoors excursions in 1980.
With a wealth of activity options, I was living it up on board their gleaming Levante Rivera 4000 Offshore Sedan, on a private luxury charter. Suitable for up to six guests, the glamour and elegance of this launch is irresistible, with a full-slate of amenities.
My personal crew were impeccable hosts, effervescent and outgoing, serving eats and drinks, kitting me out with the fishing gear and catering to my every whim, while illuminating me greatly about the grandeur of the lake.
As much as I’d love to brag about my personal fishing prowess, I only landed a decent-sized rainbow trout courtesy of their proven expertise and intuitive knowledge of the lake. Whether you opt for a private fishing charter or join a scenic cruise with Chris Jolly Outdoors, an unrivalled highlight is to drool over the gobsmacking artwork that adorns the rock face of Mine Bay, tucked away in Lake Taupo¯.
We got an intimate, up-close encounter, just metres away from this spell-binding rock carving called Nga¯toroirangi.
Back in the 1970s, Matahi Whakataka Brightwell’s grandmother asked him to create a likeness of her ancestor Nga¯toroirangi on a totara tree. When Matahi arrived in Taupo¯, there was no totara tree to carve, so he ventured on to the lake for inspiration.
Wearing just speedos and safety glasses, while standing on bamboo scaffolding, it took four years for Matahi and three fellow artists to complete this heroic artwork. Weathered by the elements, Matahi is now planning some touch-ups.
I was itching to rock some of Taupo¯’s much-vaunted mountain bike trails and they won’t disappoint.
I hooked up with Johnny Clapcott who recently switched from being a teacher (a serious loss to our education system) to power up his bike hire and guiding business, Four B. Alongside rentals and guiding, Four B also offers accommodation and shuttle services to all the popular trails in the Taupo¯ region.
Based right across the road from the entrance to Craters Mountain Bike Park on Huka Falls Rd, there’s over 50km of trails in the park alone, that span all grades and abilities.
Equipped with a top-of-the-line ebike, Johnny led me on a gripping ride, that felt like a highlights reel of Taupo¯’s MTB offerings. First up, we purred along some of the Huka Trails that vividly showcase the blinding beauty of those translucent aquamarine waters of the Waikato River as it charges from the lake to plunge down the falls.
We then hot-footed it into Craters Park, where those volcanic pumice soils deliver again, ensuring year-round riding on freedraining, grippy terrain. The trails thread through exotic pine and eucalyptus plantations, with a smattering of geothermal features adjoining the tracks, including gorgeous hot water streams, if you fancy a quick, curative dip. If you need a further fix to complement Huka Falls, take a short ride down to the nearby Aratiatia Dam, which turns the narrow gorge into raging river within five minutes, several times a day.
Loud sirens ring out before the dam control gates open, before the trickling stream transforms into a torrent. It’s the next best thing to watching a flash flood, without any property damage.
For movie buffs, you’ll probably know that the Aratiatia rapids featured in The Hobbit:TheDesolationofSmaug, as the dwarves escaped from the captivity of the elves.