Flavour equation
Flavour symbolises different things to different people. It might represent the aroma and taste of a dish prepared with love by a parent or grandparent, or an opportunity for food culture to be passed on to a younger generation.
For some, it might jog the memory of a meal that provided comfort when the world was harsh or represent a path to an immigrant who longs to connect with the country of their birth as well as their adopted home.
Flavour is much more than a distinctive smell or taste; it involves our emotions, and sometimes memories, intertwined with our sense of the sounds, colours, shapes, and textures of our food. These components together make what Nik Sharma refers to as the Flavour Equation.
Nik grew up in a bicultural household watching both his parents and grandmother preparing dishes with enthusiasm and love. Nik has the same passion and it shows in this beautifully presented cookbook.
Following is one of his recipes:
BAKED SWEET POTATOES with MAPLE CRE` ME FRAˆICHE
We all adore certain pantry staples. Kefir and cre` me fraˆıche are two of my favourites. I’ve been testing new ways to improve on roasting sweet potatoes in the oven, and I found that a combination of steaming and roasting works great for a dish like this for both the texture and the extra set of aroma molecules that comes through. The first step, partial steaming, keeps the moisture inside the sweet potato while cooking, and the second step, uncovered roasting, helps create a robust flavour profile. I recommend using fragrant nuts. Toasted hazelnuts are a good substitute for the peanuts.
THE FLAVOUR APPROACH
Butter works as the fat of choice here due to its higher smoke point. As the butter melts, it separates into its constituents — fat, water, sugars, and milk solids — which undergo caramelisation and the Maillard reaction.
The sugars concentrate as the water evaporates during cooking. Fish sauce adds a spot of umami to the sauce, you can use vegan fish sauce as an alternative. The peanuts and scallions provide crunch against the softer textures of the potato and the dressing.
SERVES 4
Ingredients
For the sweet potatoes:
4 sweet potatoes (each 200g), preferably a yellow-fleshed variety such as Garnet or Jewel 2 Tbsp unsalted butter, at room temperature Fine sea salt
For the dressing:
1⁄2 cup [120g] cre` me fraˆıche or sour cream 1 Tbsp maple syrup or honey
1 Tbsp fresh lime juice
2 tsp fish sauce (optional)
1⁄2 tsp ground black pepper
Fine sea salt
For garnish:
2 Tbsp thinly sliced scallions, both green and white parts
2 Tbsp roasted peanuts
1 tsp red chilli flakes, such as Aleppo, Maras, or Urfa
1⁄2 tsp lime zest
Method
To prepare the sweet potatoes, preheat the oven to 204C.
Rinse and scrub the sweet potatoes under running tap water. Slice them lengthwise and place them in a roasting pan, cut side facing up. Brush with the butter and season with salt. Cover the pan with a sheet of aluminum foil and press around the edges to seal snugly. Bake for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, remove the foil, flip the sweet potatoes, and cook, uncovered, for 20 minutes more, until the sweet potatoes are cooked thoroughly and are tender; a knife inserted into the centre of the sweet potato should slide through easily. Remove from the heat and let rest for 5 minutes.
To prepare the dressing, in a small bowl combine cre` me fraˆıche, maple syrup, lime juice, fish sauce, if using, and pepper. Taste and season with salt.
To serve, top the warm roasted potatoes with a few tablespoons of the maple cre` me fraˆıche dressing. Sprinkle with scallions, peanuts, red chilli flakes, and lime zest. Serve with the extra dressing on the side.