Mike Yardley is awestruck by the splendour of the mighty Manawatu¯
Mike Yardley is awestruck by the splendour of the mighty Manawatu¯
AFTER TAKING MY FILL of Palmerston North’s urban enticements, I was itching to explore Manawatū ’s natural playground and I first headed to Arapuke Forest Park, the premier mountain bike destination in the lower North Island with more than 30km of well-formed trails, in a growing network.
Spanning all grades of difficulty, the Grade 2 trails are the ideal option for newbies and families. I then headed to the Kahuterawa Rd carpark to strike out on the region’s beloved Sledge Track.
Situated in the heart of the scenic Kahuterawa Valley, Sledge Track intimately immerses you in the majesty of our native forest environment, serving up the grandeur of towering ancient trees, plunging waterfalls and seductive swimming holes.
I joined the hordes of local weekend warriors striking out on the region’s signature Te Āpiti-Manawatū Gorge walking trails. Landslips forced the permanent closure of the gorge road over three years ago and the new highway route is currently being constructed over the Ruahine Range. With the rumble of vehicle traffic permanently silenced from the gorge, it’s the cacophony of birdsong that soundtracked my stroll.
I made a beeline for the Manawatū Gorge Loop track, an easy stroll of 1.2km through native bush. Branching off it is the longer Tawa Loop Track, which is deliciously good. Set aside two hours to knock off this 4km-long route, which follows a steady gradient and is steep in places.
Your huffing and puffing will be handsomely rewarded with a heart-stealing view across the sinuous curves of the bush-wrapped gorge.
Keep an eye out for Whatonga, a stirring 6m-high steel sculpture of the Rangitāne chief who captained the Kurahaupō waka when it landed 800 years ago. If you’re up for another challenging leg-stretcher, head north for an hour and strike out on the Rangiwahia Track.
An insta-worthy highlight is the magnificent arched-wooden bridge, before the grade becomes steeper, to reach the Rangiwahia Hut. If you’re doing the walk as a day-trip, give yourself two hours each way. Alternatively, you can book a stay overnight in the DoC hut.
The panoramic views are seraphic, sweeping your eyes across the central plateau and Manawatū Plains. Northern Manawatū affords awe-inspiring views even from the comfort of the car on the hinterland roads that waltz with the river as they dip in and out of the valleys.
Crowning the western horizon, I found myself swooning over the views of the snow-topped clarity of Mount Ruapehu.
Running from Mangaweka to Ashhurst, take a drive along the Manawatū Scenic Route, a dedicated touring circuit that accentuates the beauty and charm of the backcountry, threading together a necklace of scenic gems, rolling farmland, hidden valleys and charismatic settlements. Boasting 280ha of farmland in Āpiti, Makoura Lodge is a fabulous country luxury lodge, wrapped in natural splendour.
Panoramic views greet you at every turn across the Ruahine Ranges, gullies and native bush. Renowned for its stirring country hospitality, the lodge caters to a wide market, whether it be weddings, couples retreats, birthdays or business conferences. There’s a range of accommodation options, but if you fancy an indulgent romantic retreat, the Riverside Retreat cabin.
They also offer corporate packages complete with exclusive venue use, delicious meals, wonderful accommodation and private bar use. The range of on-site team building activities is impressive spanning 4WD training, horse trekking, claybird shooting, archery — even Hole in One gold. Owned and operated by Hugh and Kimberley McIntyre, the property has been a going concern for the McIntyre family since 1896.
The lodge itself was built in 1998, with as many local materials as possible. It features macrocarpa timber, milled from the property, and rocks out of the nearby Coal Creek River for stone work. The impressive open log fire surround and bar top are made from a Totara log that survived a scrub fire on the property. In 1903 the original homestead was built in 1903 by Hugh and Jack McIntyre brothers and still stands today.
I had the pleasure of spending some time with Kimberley and Hugh, who took me for a spin on the incredible 4WD training course, which is widely regarded as one of New Zealand’s best off road vehicle and 4WD training facilities. They wonderfully homely hosts are a delight to get to know as you share their authentic, heritage-laden family slice of hinterland paradise.
■ For more information visit manawatunz.com