Keith Lynch.
Portland may sit seemingly lost in the American North West, but it has forged its own identity and it’s a load of fun, writes
The attraction of American cities is in their predictability. Their history may not stretch back to the eras where we’re not even sure of the history itself, but this means the cities share a commonality – each shaped in part by the romantic periods of modern American history, which not only shaped that country but touched the entire western world. Portland may sit seemingly lost in the American North West, but it shares a lot with the likes of New York and Chicago – with its food, drink, overt homelessness, and that sheer American force of character.
But in recent years it’s forged its own identity based on craft beer, coffee, bicycle paths, art, music, legalisation of cannabis, and theatre. It’s the Wellington to New York’s Auckland, the Galway to Chicago’s Dublin.
I wish I had more time – 48 hours isn’t enough.
I’m staying at the Jupiter Hotel, a once motor lodge, which now markets itself as a place for ‘‘modern travellers, cultural creatives, and anyone who lives outside the box’’. This is a hotel more hipster than activated almonds. I was worried. Getting old, I suppose. It was great, close to downtown, attached to a great little bar, and you can bring your pets.
Next up, a walking tour of downtown. Portland is refreshingly tight for a US city – fully walkable, and packed full of cool little bars and coffee shops. My guide told me about the all too familiar problems with housing costs, the rush towards making it friendly for cyclists, the legalisation of cannabis, the craft beers, and the street food on SW 2nd Ave being among the best in the city (she was right), and the place’s dedication to being smart around how it treats and maintains its city.
I duck into the Ace Hotel bar for a cocktail before dinner at Departure, a hip rooftop bar. So this place ...
So first up, what impresses me most about food is rarely the new and the novel, the shock and surprise factor. No, for me, it ain’t about obscure ingredients, it’s about making simple common dishes better than the next guy.
First round: ‘‘Sushi, chicken wings and dumplings please.’’ I’m going to admit I don’t enjoy flowery prose about cuisine. What can you say? The lemon really brings out the dill, the duck was moist, beautifully cooked. We’ve read these and dozens of sentences like them hundreds, if not thousands, of times before.
Our reaction to food is emotive and primal – silence, surprise, joy. Or even disappointment that you’ll only enjoy this experience for a small time. I decided to extend my experience and immediately ordered more. The food is exquisite, the chicken is the best I’ve ever had.
Next day, it’s a three-hour cycling micro-brewery tour of the city with Pedal Bike Tours. These guys are great as are the places we visit – a gorgeous BridgeFort Brew Pub, and the wonderful McMenamin’s Crystal Hotel, an establishment with its own brewery on site.
I talked mostly sport with a New York banker for a good two hours. I asked him about 9/11 (he forced a man driving alone near the ferry to take him and others back to Jersey. I asked him about Trump. He’d told me he’d done business with the man, and while he’s Republican, he’d never vote for The Don. His family looked on, bored. I had a great time. This is a great tour through the heart of a stunning city.
That night I check out the bar, the Doug Fir, off the hotel. American self-confidence never fails to impress. The locals have no problems talking to strangers, they’re interesting and interested.
Early the next day I’m on a boat, heading up the Columbia River. It’s a stunning trip but I want more Portland. The writer travelled to Oregon with Adventureworld.