The Post

A taste of...

The Old Quarter 39 Dixon St, Te Aro.

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We’d heard… That cheap Malaysian BYO Satay Kajang made way for a new Vietnamese place headed up by owner-chef Huy Dong, formerly of Chow.

We ordered… Peking duck ($16) lettuce wraps. The mixture of spring onions and a hearty dose of crushed cashews had depth and flavour, but could have used a little more meat. DIY dishes are always fun, and the leaves of cos, mint and coriander were fresh. The hoisin chilli sauce bound it all together, but overall it was missing a bit of kick.

However, any cravings for the spicy stuff were satiated with the beef curry ($18). A large bowl of slow-cooked beef, slightly reminiscen­t of Thai massaman, had hints of ginger, garlic and a lot of heat. This was our personal highlight and it went particular­ly well with the sweetness of a side of coconut rice - order them together. The salt and pepper squid ($14) was cooked just right (not chewy or greasy) and livened up with a tangy kimchi mayo.

The bao buns where soft and milky. The salt and pepper soft shell crab ($9) filling had a full deep-fried crustacean (claws and all) and was complement­ed with tart pickled cucumber. However, the subtle honey and lemongrass notes of the BBQ Chicken version ($9) were lost to the Sriracha mayo. Overall, the quality of ingredient­s, presentati­on, and execution makes this one of the best Vietnamese joints in the CBD.

The service… Quietly confident. Staff are friendly, happy to advise on the menu and our food came quickly with no hiccups.

The vibe… A graphic designer’s lucid dream. Posters pop with blocks of primary colours and bold type fonts that tell you to ‘‘go for the pho, bro’’. It’s a warm and vibrant upgrade from the drab and uninspirin­g space it was before the refurb, with trendy pendant lighting and cosy booths to boot.

If you go… It’s a charming and lively spot, great for a group outing. Take over one of those banquettes, order a huge jug of Sapporo on tap ($10) and share some small plates, Asian style.

Rating out of 5: 4 – Janan Jay

 ?? JANAN JAY/STUFF ?? Salt & pepper soft shell crab bao, pickled cucumber and kimchi mayo.
JANAN JAY/STUFF Salt & pepper soft shell crab bao, pickled cucumber and kimchi mayo.

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