A taste of...
The Fermentery
100 Taranaki St, Te Aro.
We’d heard… The new restaurant at the Whistling Sisters brewery is packed nightly. Headed up by award-winning chef John Allred (Osteria del Toro), the menu is inspired by fermentation and beer byproducts.
We ordered… The eggplant and pomegranate dip ($16) is a rough take on the classic baba ganoush – and the best thing I’ve found even close to the real thing in Wellington. Packed with enough garlic to repel a vampire (we were warned and regret nothing), it is as smoky as it gets.
Don’t be put off by the weird sounding brandade ($16), especially if you have a thing for seafood. The salt-preserved fish retains a fishy flavour, topped with sweet tomatoes.
Kraut ‘n’ cheese balls ($9) come out gooey and piping hot, and are very addictive, as are the double cooked fermented fries with homemade ketchup ($8), which we are happy to say are back to their former, fatter glory after an attempt at a smaller incarnation.
The lamb shoulder ($28) is a star, slow roasted for 16 hours with barberries, cumin and cinnamon. It’s pulled apart, then vacuum-packed back into a fillet shape.
If I’m trading my dignity for a doggy bag of scraps, because I’m too stuffed to finish three forkfuls – you’ve done something very, very right.
The service… Amazing. The place was packed, and the host managed to find me a spot, nicely tucked away. The friendly staff, who go above and beyond, know the dishes inside out and are super passionate about the food.
The vibe… Industrial chic. Rough concrete and steely accents meet modern lighting, with plush curtains and carpets. Sit downstairs if you want to enjoy the upbeat music, upstairs if you’d rather it a bit quieter.
If you go… You can’t step in here without trying the beer. I would drink my own bodyweight of that chocolate oatmeal stout ($5) if I could.
Rating out of 5: 4.5 – Janan Jay