Classics at the local

Union Square Bistro is ever dependable, even on the new owner’s day off.

Even before Mike Laven spent a fortune restoring The Martinborough Hotel under the mistaken impression it had once belonged to his wife’s forebears, its public bar was regarded as the premier local, the sort of place an out-of-towner might strike up a conversation with a Martinborough builder or homestay owner.

I might have added that the bistro leading off from the public bar has been ever as dependable, so, if only by default, please welcome Union Square Bistro, its chef patron Adam Newell and his wife Nicola, who handles front of house. Having long ago proved himself at Zibibbo, Adam is once again cooking up a storm at Union Square – or rather, his brigade is.

The place was quiet – it was Monday, Adam’s day off, and there was just one other table in for lunch.

At the open kitchen pass stood our former Le Cordon Bleu New Zealand colleague Ariki, deftly turning beef cube rolls into cylinders. Ariki told me he had opened the fridge that morning and seen a couple of Opaki black Pe´ rigord truffles, which he grabbed and microplaned into our risotto – a gorgeously rich creamy wild mushroom risotto, cooked perfectly, sprinkled liberally with pine nuts and helped along further with scoops from a spectacularly pongy jar of Italian truffled mushroom mash.

At first, I interpreted this as intelligent bribery of the food critic, but browsing social media, I find Opaki truffles have made spontaneous off-the-menu appearances at Union Square right throughout the season.

Beyond truffles and the mushrooms, the confit of duck, the steak with pinot noir glaze and the cassoulet all cry out as partners for Union Square’s 26 pinot noirs from Martinborough and beyond.

It mattered little that the by-the-glass selection was limited, as the powerful, deeply scented Escarpment ($18) from the stellar 2015 vintage seemed a no-brainer.

Cassoulet is here made with confit duck, pork belly, lamb and a very Gallic-tasting sausage – in addition to the mandatory white bean ragout. For a small touch of luxury, brioche crumbs form the crust.

Seafood bouillabaisse was also pretty much classical: calamari, prawns, scallops, fish of the day, in a fennel broth made from fish carcasses and, Ariki told me, a bit of crayfish. The surface was dotted with green olives and caper berries. A slightly tangy bowl of rouille sang of mash and mayo.

Petit fours to finish were fairly average, especially the soft hokey pokey with the chocolate mousse and the equally limp churros.