The rise of mini-me dressing
Mother-daughter fashion is big business. But where do we draw the line at ‘‘twinning’’, asks Carolyn Asome.
Growing up in the mid-1980s, sartorial rules were such that I spent most of my time figuring out how not to dress like my mother. It was possibly no bad thing given that this was suburban England rather than the tree-lined boulevards of Paris.
Oh my, how times have changed. You can’t move on social media for mini-me dressing. In an era where middle-class mothers and daughters might actually go to get piercings together, is it any wonder the luxury childrenswear market is booming?
According to market research provider Euromonitor, it is forecast to reach US$6.6 billion (NZ$9.76m) by the end of the year – that’s a lot of parents dashing out to bag a pair of toddler-sized Gucci loafers to match their own.
Kim Kardashian is leading the way, although what you make of her outing with 5-year-old North, shimmying in near-matching sequin silver dresses by French label Vetements, is a moot point. Beyonce is at it too, matchy-matchy with daughter Blue Ivy, in floral dresses from Dolce & Gabbana.
For many designer brands, it’s the chance to offer the whole family the same look. Fancy a serving of Alessandro Michele’s colourful mash-up at Gucci? Well, now you can also indulge your 8-year-old – with the advent of designer homewares, she can even match the crockery.
Brands such as Dolce & Gabbana incorporate similar styles, fabrics and design into their childrenswear. So, too, do Fendi, Balenciaga, Burberry and Dior.
It extends even to more accessible price points: new to market is an army of mini-mes from American label Love Shack Fancy, while exVoguette turned kaftan designer Pippa Holt has introduced a collection of diminutive versions of her Mexican jet-setting kaftans.
Domenico Dolce believes that today, ‘‘more children are interested in dressing up as their favourite adults’’.
‘‘It could be their parents or an older stylish cousin or celebrity. In other words, they demand a mini version of adult clothing: shorter dresses, polka dot or animal patterns, fancy shoes.’’
Undoubtedly, this trend will be disturbing for many: at one level peddling Lolita-esque fantasies, or the syrupy idea that grown women actually plan matching outfits. It is just as nauseating as the thought of mothers wanting to hang out with their kids as ‘‘friends’’ or, worse, go clubbing together.
Parading a younger version of yourself also smacks of a certain vanity (and desperation) and yet, accents of the same style can make sense.
Newer brands such as Belle Enfant or Japanese brand OWA (born as an antithesis to the sugary, mass-produced childrenswear out there) produce sophisticated clothes in a non-garish colour palette, certainly minus the Disney pink, that feel fashion-forward and are likely to complement a mother who dresses in understated, hard-to-place niche labels.
One thing that retailers, shoppers and fashion designers fervently agree on is that social media, specifically Instagram, has a lot to answer for. It’s a no-brainer: photogenic child dressed in cute or ontrend outfit next to a glamorous mum equals photoop made in heaven.
I have always been a little eye-rolly about minime dressing. What is wrong with women (although it’s increasingly men, too), who have the time to do this? I make Herculean efforts to not live my life through my children, to retain my sense of self, and yet I know, I think subconsciously, that I tonally colour co-ordinate with my three children every time we step out the front door.
Yes, it is ridiculous but somehow it feels a bit neater and, if I’m honest, a little tribal.
Designer Alex Eagle agrees that it’s often a happy coincidence that she, too, is swaddled in layers of navy and cream cashmere – although she says she never looks as cute as her children.
‘‘It’s not top of my priority list to co-ordinate as I am usually so time-poor, but I think if it makes you feel good, and creates a beautiful visual moment, then why not?’’ says Anna Bromilow, founder of childrenswear e-tailer Little Circle, ex-fashion director of Tatler and mother to three girls.
This is not a trend that is confined to preschoolers either. Now 60 is the new 40, there are older mother-and-daughter combos at it as well. This week, three generations of Redgrave women wowed us on the red carpet in an arresting tableau of similar monochromatic column silhouettes.
Genetics obviously play their part too because, often, mothers and daughters have the same colouring, shape and frame.
‘‘Kitty and I share the same taste,’’ admits Lisa Armstrong, head of fashion at The Telegraph.
‘‘I’m not saying we’d wear identical items, but we definitely both veer towards silk blouses, skirts and tailoring.’’
Meanwhile, I’m allergic to anything sparkly or covered in glitter. Living under the same roof, is it any wonder that my 9-year-old told me the other day she likes outfits that are ‘‘matt’’?
So is it possible to pull off mother-daughter dressing in a way that feels a little cooler? Eva Karayiannis, founder of fashion label Caramel, originally conceived as a childrenswear brand, believes the key to getting it right is to ensure that items are age-appropriate.
‘‘You can be wearing items in the same print but a grown woman would look ridiculous wearing a little girl’s smocked dress [which is cut too narrowly on the chest] and, consequently, it wouldn’t be right for a small child to wear something so obviously adult-looking.’’
The general consensus from people I talked to was that accents of the same pattern, print or style were more agreeable than identikit outfits.
Caramel is one of a growing number of childrenswear labels (along with Bobo Choses and Fred & Noah) to have launched adultwear. And while the response has been impressive, Karayiannis has also been careful to position it as a range in its own right.
Increasingly, however, it is fathers and sons who are taking on the mantle.
Recently, model and presenter Vogue Williams asked childrenswear designer Rachel Riley to make a matching shirt for her husband Spencer to wear on a holiday. After posting a picture of father and son on Instagram Stories, Riley was inundated with inquiries.
Lulu Rayne, shoe buyer at Step2wo at Harvey Nichols, observes this trend is far more popular. ‘‘Fathers and sons want to look like each other, whereas girls, particularly when they get older, mostly want to look different to their mothers.’’
This week, three generations of Redgrave women wowed us in an arresting tableau of similar monochromatic column silhouettes.