Brush it good

Top Kiwi makeup artists talk up their favourite weapons of choice.

Last week I wrote about the life-changing magic of a good hairbrush, this week I wanted to take a look at makeup brushes. I have to admit I’m less of a beauty brush gal than I should be – I have a jarful which, to me, all look kind of the same, and I rarely reach for them.

Right beside the ignored jar, though, sit two brushes I use every, single, day.

The Rae Morris Jishaku #1 Deluxe Kabuki brush ($117 at Mecca) pretty much covers off everything you need to do to your face.

I use it to apply my mineral powder foundation, for blush and (on the odd occasion I use) bronzer and even to lightly blend in concealer. Hold the brush at the thicker top part when you want to apply a bit more pressure, or back it up to the end for lighter, more controlled work. If swapping between colour and base product, just hit the bristles with an instant brush cleaner spray.

My other secret weapon is Kevyn Aucoin’s The Concealer Brush ($55 at Mecca). This tiny but mighty number is a multi-tasking marvel designed for precision application of creams, gels and liquids – but I also use it for blending liner into the lash line and cleaning up lip lines.

Of course, I’m no makeup artist, so I’ve also checked in with three top Kiwi pros for whom brushes are essential tools of the trade, to see what their weapons of choice are.

“Brushes can be confusing and it’s so difficult to choose the right ones that are also easy to use,” says Gabrielle Jones, director at The Makeup School and one of our most renowned film and television makeup artists.

“I find most women don’t want (or need) hundreds of brushes to apply their own makeup.

“Having been a makeup artist for over 20 years and using zillions of brushes, hands down my favourite (and value for money) brushes are the MyKitCo brush range, designed by talented British makeup artist James Molloy.”

Two of Jones’ MyKitCo faves are the My Flawless Face 0.22 ($35) and My Blending Shadow 1.15 ($32) brushes.

“What I love about the super-soft Flawless Face brush is that it’s cleverly tapered to fit the contours of the face, whether applying blush, powder, buffing product or even applying foundation – which means it’s four brushes in one!

“For people on the go, this large, soft, full-rounded Blending Shadow brush is an essential one-stop shop for applying a quick but effective all-over wash of colour on the eyelid.

“It’s also great for creating a more dramatic eye look and I love that it works well with both powder and cream formula,” says Jones.

Highly sought after makeup artist Kath Gould is also a MyKitCo fan, favouring the My Detailing Smudge 1.13 brush ($25), which she says is perfect for soft, blown-out liner and shape around the eyes.

Gould’s also obsessed with MAC’s 217 Blending brush ($48).

“It’s great to blend out eyeshadow, apply concealer or any other cream products, and to soften any hard lines,” she says.

Sophy Phillips, freelance makeup artist extraordinaire and co-founder of Common People salon, loves Nars’ Smudge Brush 45 ($48 at Mecca), which she says is perfect for softening pencil and shadow under the eye or working it through the top lash line.

“It’s dense, with very short bristles, so the product doesn’t stray too far,” she says.

Her other treasured piece of kit is the Tom Ford Cream Foundation brush ($130 at Smith & Caughey’s).

“It’s totally luxurious and has an amazing weight to it in the hand.

“All Tom Ford brushes are synthetic, which I really appreciate.

“I use brushes that would often be considered ‘powder’ brushes to work with creams on the face. This brush keeps creams looking like skin,” says Phillips.