All hail Fiordland’s Hollyford Track
It was a classic, wet Fiordland summer day as we piled our gear into the helicopter that would fly us to Martins Bay just before Christmas. The sandflies were fierce and the promise of an unforgettable adventure was strong as we took off above the daytrippers cruising along Milford Sound. Before long, we had left them behind, curving out to sea and following the rugged coastline north.
What a pristine and enthralling place. Big glaciated valleys drop down steep cliffs towards an unforgiving blue sea, all covered in a dense layer of native bush. No wonder this part of New Zealand was the last bastion of ka¯ ka¯ po¯ and holds myths like the elusive Fiordland moose. A place of possibility, it left me jittering with excitement.
Fiordland is wild and immense – many parts of it almost inaccessible, except by those with powerful navigational skills, determination and true grit.
Many visitors stick to Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound, as the two main tourist areas of interest with daily access in various ways. But getting off the beaten path down here has always been on my mind and nowhere else beckoned me more than the Hollyford Track, that weaves its way from the mountains along the Milford Road towards the sea at Martins Bay.
As we disembarked the helicopter in Martins Bay, the weather let loose with wild abandon, bucketing rain that wouldn’t relent for a day. Luckily, Fiordland is most spectacular in the rain, as temporary waterfalls tumble down and the forests drip and glisten, almost sparkling. The peaks of the striking mountains surrounding the area pop in and out of view as fog and cloud drift by, providing a truly ethereal feeling.
The shades of green here are unreal and more than once I had to rub my eyes to make sure I wasn’t imagining it. It wouldn’t feel out of place to spot a dinosaur here.
An alluring Fiordland track that can be walked in a variety of ways and timeframes, the Hollyford is perfect for any kind of tramper. With a tight schedule and lack of strong tramping fitness, I opted to give the two-day, guided helicopter excursion a go and I wasn’t disappointed.
Skipping over the accurately named Demon Trail, we flew in and out of Martins Bay on shorter day trips, meaning we didn’t have to carry a heavy pack and we had a hot homemade meal and hot shower waiting for us at the private lodge at night.
Two days on the Hollyford Track was one of those incredible adventures that will stay with me for a lifetime. From exploring the historic settlements, to walking beneath ancient podocarp forests as kereru¯ and other native birds soar above you, the Hollyford Track is surely a spectacular place that deserves a visit or two.