Europeonour doorstep
Whanganuihasbeen builtonart, butthe pretty cityalso offers plenty to keepfoodiesand adventurershooked, writes
SharonStephenson.
‘Man makes plans and God laughs,’’ goes the old Yiddish saying. Could anything be more apt for 2020? About now, I was supposed to be in Scotland, then France, doing exciting things and writing about them.
We all know what happened to those plans. But, if the past few months have taught us anything, it’s that having our wings clipped isn’t such a bad thing: we’re seeing more of our own backyard, while reducing carbon emissions and deep vein thrombosis.
When a friend, who’d recently moved from Auckland to Whanganui, raved about how cool the river city had become, I knew it was time to see if she was right. As she says, who needs Europe when we have this gem on your doorstep?
Best coffee spot
Is Article a cafe, gallery or a vintage shop? Why, it’s all three. This cool-as caffeine stop on the corner of Drews Ave and Rutland St is like catnip for Whanganui’s creative types (of which there are many). Let owner Jack Mitchell-Anyon, son of potter Ross Mitchell-Anyon, make you a long black while you read the local newspaper, which was once produced within these walls. Brownie points for the vintage clothing and art for sale, and communal tables where you’ll end up making friends.
Every cafe thinks it has the best cheese scones, but The Yellow House Cafe does – big and luscious, with the right butter-to-cheese ratio. Nine years ago, Kiaya and Jonathan Banks bought this established cafe that – surprise, surprise – is in a yellow villa. Order the buttermilk pancakes with berries, then grab a couple of cheese scones to go.
Drive to Castlecliff, and The Citadel that Malcolm and Roxi Whitlock opened 18 months ago, shortly after returning from five years in Vanuatu. They have applied their impressive hospitality talents in this cute cafe, where the menu is littered with names such as Baby Dahl (delicious split pea dahl curry) and Vladimir Poutine (the fattest chips I’ve ever seen, smothered in chicken salt, melted cheese, and gravy). Walk off your lunch at nearby Castlecliff Beach.
Best dinner spot
Imagine a slither of New York, Melbourne or even
Wellington, dropped into Whanganui and you will have some idea how cool Maria Lane Eatery & Bar is. Opened a year ago on the site of a car park, this tiny but perfectly outfitted eatery is the coolest joint in town. Owners Belinda Pilcher and Bryce Mason bring experience from London and Auckland, and lured chef Isaac Paurini from Melbourne to spin culinary magic on delights such as Vietnamesestyle ku¯mara dumplings, tamaribaked tempeh and sherry-braised beef cheek.
The location is superb and the venue is even better: Whanganui’s old post office’s high ceilings and generous spaces make Frank Bar + Eatery the place to enjoy a drink before dinner, or a boogie in adjacent Lit Bar (another addition to owner Les Kiriona’s ever-expanding hospitality portfolio). Kiriona will probably be behind the bar, whipping up a golden mile cocktail (piso with triple sec), or a dirty shake (try the chocolate, peanut butter and vodka mashup). When your tummy rumbles, order bao buns, seafood linguine or a Frank Sinatra (beef burger).
So this is where the city’s hipsters hang out. I couldn’t find out why Whanganui’s newest bar is called Porridge Watson, but who cares when this late-night watering hole is so good. The retro game is strong, with vintage gaming machines, mulled wine, board games, and lots of pretzels. Large enough for a group of mates, but intimate enough for date night.
Does the mighty Whanganui River get the love it deserves? Make sure it does with a riverboat cruise on the Waimarie, a paddle steamer built in 1899. Boat geeks will be in heaven, as they watch coal being shovelled into the boiler, while others will enjoy the scenery and historical snippets about attractions on the two-hour return journey.
If you need garden inspiration, drive 15 minutes to Paloma Gardens. This Garden of National Significance features so many plants, you won’t know where to look. There’s the palm garden, the desert house, bamboo forests, and intriguing garden of death (poisonous plants). Don’t be surprised if you end up at a garden centre on the way home.
There’s plenty to entertain in Whanganui, from top: the Waimarie paddle steamer; The Sarjeant Gallery; Castlecliff’s Citadel Cafe; and the popular riverside market.
Solo travellers
For a bird’s-eye view of the city and surrounds, take a scenic flight with the New Zealand International Commercial Pilot Academy (don’t worry, you won’t be going with a student pilot). Climb more than 1000 metres above the city in a Cessna 172 for the half-hour flight. Ask for Jarrod Kirk to fly you – he’s awesome.
Adventurers
Walk up the 176 steps of the Durie HillWar Memorial Tower for stunning views of the city and river. Then cross the road to catch the famous 1919-built Durie Hill Elevator (say hi to Zena Mabbott, who’s been operating the lift for 50 years). Walk though the tunnel so you can tell everyone you’ve visited the southern hemisphere’s only public underground and earthbound elevator.
Everyone
Visit an art gallery (or three). This is the city that art built, so wander through the Arts Precinct, roughly the lower blocks of the river’s edge, where there’s everything from glassblowing and illustration to pottery and paintings. The street art and installations are outstanding.
Stay Budget
Coachman’s Lodge Motel is near the Whanganui Regional Museum and close to the river. The nine rooms include a kitchenette and free wi-fi.
Family
If you have a brood to house, head to the Anndion Lodge Motel and Conference Centre, which has 21 rooms, a pool, sauna, and spa pool, for the little darlings to spread out and have fun.
Location
‘‘Nothing is very far in Whanganui,’’ almost everyone we meet say. It’s true, but the Rutland Arms Inn is possibly the city’s best located hotel. Built around 1847, apparently for thirsty British soldiers stationed in the city, life wasn’t kind to the elegant two-storey hotel, which burned to the ground once and was the victim of fire three more times. But it has survived, and now has eight well-appointed suites. Breakfast is included, and you can even take drinks from the bar up to your room.
It’s believed some kind of goods have been traded on Taupo¯ Quay for hundreds of years. That tradition continues today with the Saturday Farmers’ Market at the river’s edge. Pick up everything from artisan honey and organic vegetables to locally made skincare and ha¯ngi takeaway food.