The wonders of Waikaremoana
Mountainbikers rejoice, the challenging and beautiful track is ripe for the riding again, writes
From May 1 to November 30 each year, the Heaphy Track is open to mountainbikers. Between its wilderness scenery, natural wonders and mostly friendly terrain, it’s up there with the best. Even its near neighbour, the Old Ghost Road.
Traversing Kahurangi National Park, the 78km Great Walk was first opened to mountainbikers in 2011, on a two-year, winter season trail.
Since then, it has become ‘‘a classic among classics’’, according to mountainbiking gurus, the Kennett Brothers.
Whether you bike or hike it, the Heaphy’s highlights are epic and endless. They include ever-changing landscapes as the track heads up one valley and down another, and across the amazing Gouland Downs. The various landforms and plants are ancient, strange and beautiful.
The wildlife takes the experience to the next level. Bird species include robins, tomtits, bellbirds, and tu¯¯ı, along with rare species such as ka¯ka¯riki, rock wren, mohua, kea and whio. Cheeky weka are inclined to appear at every picnic bench, lookout or hut in the vain hope you’ll give them a crumb.
The ultimate bird-spot is the critically endangered takahe¯, 30 of which were released on Gouland
Downs in 2018. One wandered right out in front of us on our ride. We also heard great spotted kiwi at
Heaphy Hut.
Other special wildlife includes elusive Powelliphanta snail, bats, skinks, and geckos, but also the cave we¯ta¯ and spiders that inhabit the caves near Gouland Downs Hut.
Riding the trail
This is a ride for fit, grade 3-4 riders. For most of the way, the track is well-draining with a grippy surface, but there are some rocky, rooty and rutty sections, and some boggy bits the closer you get to the West Coast.
Although it can be ridden in either direction, the popular option is to start at Brown Hut in Golden Bay (an hour’s drive from Ta¯kaka), and finish at Ko¯haihai in the Buller area.
Following common practice, we rode it over three days and two nights, staying overnight at the Perry Saddle and Heaphy huts.
Day one starts at Brown Hut, from where the trail winds steadily up through beech forest. The terrain is rocky but mostly rideable, though I dismounted
reasonably regularly to rest my legs and to have a look around.
The snaking Aorere River recedes from view as the mountains loom larger, including Mt Olympus, Dragons Teeth and Drunken Sailors. A full panorama can be admired at Flanagan’s Corner, the trail’s highpoint (910 metres).
In all, it’s a fairly taxing 3-4-hour climb to reach Perry Saddle Hut, which sits in a prime position with fabulous views.
Day two took us a good eight hours, although we were diddling around a fair bit. And well you might. This section from Perry Saddle to James Mackay Hut might just be the best day’s riding of your life.
A well-benched track leads off through mossy forest to reach Gouland Downs, an undulating plateau cloaked in hardy herbs, tussock and stunted trees.
The trail climbs gradually to reach James Mackay Hut from where there’s a big view down the Heaphy River valley towards the Tasman Sea.
The descent through increasingly lush podocarp forest is one to remember (with thanks to DOC for some obvious effort). Wonderfully flowy, with good grip, it has just enough rocks, drops and stream crossings to keep things interesting.
At the bottom of the hill is Lewis Shelter, adjacent to stony river flats where you can soak up some sun before crossing the Heaphy River on New Zealand’s second-longest, bikeable suspension bridge, which is a whopping 148m long. All going well, you’ll reach Heaphy Hut with plenty of time to enjoy sunset on the driftwood-strewn beach. mouth.
Getting to and from the track
There’s no getting around it: the Heaphy Track trailheads are remote and far apart.
Between those trailheads is a winding 400km drive, taking virtually a whole day. You can catch a pre-arranged shuttle or car swap, but why would you drive when you could fly? The flight over
The final day’s ride is a 3-4-hour wind through nı¯kau forest lining a series of wild and salt-misted beaches made all the more interesting by shorebirds and fur seals. The track is mostly smooth and sandy, with occasional climbs and clambers over pinches, rocky track washouts, and the beach itself. Here, the Heaphy Track will remain forever at the mercy of Tangaroa – the god of the sea – with DOC battling valiantly to keep the track high and dry.
After a final push over
Ko¯ haihai Bluff, the track finishes at the DOC camp at the Ko¯ haihai River
Kahurangi National Park is spectacular.
For a reasonable $219, Golden Bay Air will fly you and your bike from Karamea (an hour’s ride from Ko¯ haihai) to Ta¯ kaka aerodrome.
For an extra $65 you can store your vehicle at Ta¯ kaka aerodrome then get shuttled to the trailhead at Brown Hut.
A more ambitious option is to ride the Heaphy Track as part of the Kahurangi 500, a 5-10-day, 500km bikepacking loop taking in the Old Ghost Road along with various road routes via Murchison, Tapawera, Rı¯waka and Ta¯ kaka.
Read more about this and other multi-day trips in the Kennett Brothers’ new Bikepacking Aotearoa guidebook.
Tips and tricks
Distance, remoteness and technical sections make this an advanced (grade 4) track.
Great Walk huts must be booked in advance, and you must stay in the hut you’ve booked.
Perry Saddle and Heaphy Huts have gas cookers, heating and lighting throughout winter.
A good forecast is essential. Dry weather will make your ride more enjoyable, and you’ll see a lot more when the skies are clear. Ideally, have a day or two up your sleeve to hit the optimum weather window. But regardless of the forecast, take clothing for all conditions, it can get very wet and cold. Sections along the West Coast are prone to flooding, especially at high tide and in rough seas. Expect wet feet, but you may also have to wait it out. Ebikes aren’t permitted.