The Post

Empty Aotearoa ours to embrace

There has never been a better summer to ‘go bush’ and enjoy our ‘empty’ backcountr­y, writes Liz Carlson.

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As someone who has lived in tourist towns, and worked in the tourism industry for a decade, I have always had my finger on the pulse. Let’s just say we are in a bit of a coma right now, but one with an optimistic outcome. It’s almost two years since our borders closed and the tourism industry was decimated in New Zealand.

Deep down, we all know that we can’t stay shut off forever. Whether we like it or not, visitors will return, and likely in droves, especially as we now exist in the collective psyche as a place that did the pandemic right.

While individual­ly none of us can wave a magic wand to change our current situation, we do have a choice over how we respond to the cards we have been dealt. And I am totally embracing a New Zealand backcountr­y empty of internatio­nal tourists.

This is going to be the summer to get outdoors. At the peak of tourism in New Zealand, I found myself avoiding some places that were very crowded, such as Roy’s Peak, or felt that I missed out on certain tracks because the huts were booked out a year in advance.

Now they are relatively empty and waiting for us.

We don’t know how long this coma will last with no internatio­nal visitors, so we might as well take advantage and enjoy the empty backcountr­y this summer.

A month ago I was looking to get away for a few days, to take advantage of an incredible weather window in Fiordland.

On a whim, I checked the Routeburn Track hut availabili­ty, and saw that bookings were wide open. It was the same situation with the Great Walks; even the popular Milford Track had space, which I also eagerly booked.

Two days later, I found myself dusting off my tramping pack and walking under perfect clear blue skies along one of New Zealand’s most beautiful walks.

Normally, the Great Walks book out a year in advance. Between the closed borders and the North Island lockdowns, the huts were about halffull at the most.

There was comfort and camaraderi­e between those on the track, and a collective feeling that something rather special was happening – perhaps a glimpse into the New Zealand of decades ago.

Whether you are a seasoned tramper who enjoys a real challenge, or someone looking to get out in nature more regularly, this is a fantastic season to give it a go without worrying about crowded huts or busy trails. I am already planning my summer adventures, including some harder backcountr­y tramps and missions.

With fewer people on the trails, it means you have to be more cautious than ever, especially as a solo tramper. While you can never depend on someone finding you if you end up in a pickle (always carry an EPIRB beacon and always share your plans), now it is even less likely you would be found with fewer trampers about.

This means it is really important to be safe and plan accordingl­y when you are heading off the grid, especially with most of our national parks out of mobile phone range.

Between DOC and the Mountain Safety Council’s Plan My Walk app, I carefully plan my adventures as safely as possible. No-one wants to be winched off a mountain by rescuers.

 ?? PHOTOS: LIZ CARLSON/STUFF ?? Sunset over the Hump Ridge Track is one of my favourite tramping memories.
PHOTOS: LIZ CARLSON/STUFF Sunset over the Hump Ridge Track is one of my favourite tramping memories.
 ?? ?? Standing on a very empty Fox Glacier early last year. Prepandemi­c you needed to book heli-hikes well in advance because of their popularity.
So many of the most popular backcountr­y huts remain empty or quiet these days.
Standing on a very empty Fox Glacier early last year. Prepandemi­c you needed to book heli-hikes well in advance because of their popularity. So many of the most popular backcountr­y huts remain empty or quiet these days.
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