The Press

Climbers’ memorial gives closure

- MICHAEL HAYWARD

When Michael Wilby was nearly 10, his brother travelled around the world from England to Arthur’s Pass. He never came back.

Over 50 years later, a memorial has been placed behind the chapel in the village, in memory of Jeffrey Wilby and the four others who lost their lives on Mt Rolleston in June 1966.

The incident was one of New Zealand’s worst alpine disasters.

The others in Wilby’s climbing group were Christchur­ch’s Bruce Ferguson, 19, Invercargi­ll’s Colin Robertson, 20, and British climber Michael Harper, in his 20s. All four were experience­d mountainee­rs. A fifth man, John Harrison, died trying to find them.

Wilby and his climbing party set out in good weather on June 19, 1966, but failed to return as expected after a norwest wind caused a dramatic weather change.

Several days later, a group of eight searchers were camped on the Otira Slide when an avalanche buried the camp.

Seven managed to escape their tents from under three metres of snow, but Harrison – one of New Zealand’s top mountainee­rs – was killed.

Three bodies were found in the years following, but Wilby’s remains were still on the mountain.

Michael Wilby travelled from Blackburn, England, for the memorial dedication yesterday, his first time in New Zealand.

‘‘To see his name on there, it’s as if he’s alive again, even though he’s still up there. It is quite special for me.’’

His brother was a lovely, quiet bloke whom everybody liked, with an ‘‘absolutely massive’’ love for the outdoors.

The memorial – created by Canterbury artist Sam Mahon – comprises a bronze boot on top of a large rock with a plaque naming those who died in the tragedy.

Yesterday’s short service finished with a bottle of whisky passed around, while a native robin plucked at the flowers placed in the boot.

Harrison’s widow, Annie Harrison-McGregor, was a driving force behind the memorial. She said she wanted to ‘‘have something here which allowed people to remember it with a smile instead of a terrible pain in their hearts. I wanted closure for everybody.‘‘

Lorayne Ferguson who lost her brother Bruce, in the tragedy, said the memorial was not just about the five people who lost their lives.

‘‘There were so many people involved at the time, and they still have their vivid memories – in some cases very harrowing ones.’’

Her brother was full of life and was off climbing at every opportunit­y, she said. ‘‘It was just what he lived for.’’

John Wilson, who was part of the rescue party, was in the tent with Harrison when the avalanche buried the group. He and the other survivors were pulled out ‘‘in the nick of time’’.

 ?? PHOTO: IAIN MCGREGOR/FAIRFAX NZ ?? Michael Wilby travelled from England to pay tribute to his brother, Jeffrey Wilby, who died in the mountainee­ring incident in 1966.
PHOTO: IAIN MCGREGOR/FAIRFAX NZ Michael Wilby travelled from England to pay tribute to his brother, Jeffrey Wilby, who died in the mountainee­ring incident in 1966.
 ?? PHOTO: FAIRFAX NZ ARCHIVE ?? Emergency services gather in Otira Valley, which leads to the eastern face of Mt Rolleston in June 1966.
PHOTO: FAIRFAX NZ ARCHIVE Emergency services gather in Otira Valley, which leads to the eastern face of Mt Rolleston in June 1966.

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