Making it big in markets
Some of New Zealand’s most successful food companies started out at farmers’ markets. Some now run their own restaurants, sell their wares internationally or have written wellloved cookbooks. Thomas Heaton chats to a few of them about what makes the humbl
Afarmers’ market is just a stone’s throw from most Kiwis on any given Sunday. There are local growers, garden produce, trinkets and antique sellers and always a hot bite to eat.
Some of New Zealand’s most recognisable brands started in the humble market, testing the waters in the hope of turning their hobbies into full-time jobs.
That’s exactly what chef Matt Cross has done. After selling his sweet baked treats for about 10 years, he’s been so successful, he has just released his own cookbook: The Tart Tin.
Cross’s cart is now an institution at The Otago Farmers’ Market. He can be found on the platform of Dunedin Railway Station in his wee mint-green caravan, firmly planted among the producers selling their vegetables, fresh fruit and flowers.
The Tart Tin is a favourite among market-goers, who devour his almost too-pretty-to-eat pastries and baked goodies each week. He’s been there since 2007, in some shape or form, but has been full-time since 2010. Between then and now, he’s started supplying some of Dunedin’s top cafes with his products during the week, as well as catering weddings and events.
‘‘I never actually trained as a pastry chef,’’ he says. ’’I trained as a chef and worked in restaurants but I was the guy doing desserts because no one else wanted to do it. I always put my hand up.’’
After 10 years in kitchens, Cross was tired of ‘‘busting a gut’’ and making money for someone else. Testing the market opened his eyes to the possibility of working for himself.
‘‘I thought, ‘Well, hang on a minute, I can do that myself.’ Without having the massive capital behind you – not many people do and I don’t – to open a restaurant, I thought it was a good option.’’
He started baking and preparing premium baked goods in the form of cupcakes, cakes, pies, doughnuts and macarons. It’s a stark contrast to his restaurant days, when he would rarely see people enjoying his food. Cross takes a lot of satisfaction from interacting with customers.
‘‘At the market every week, you’ll talk to somebody, they’ll come back and tell you how much they loved it and try other things,’’ he says.
Despite plenty of suggestions by friends and fans of creating a Tart Tin cafe, Cross likes the idea of keeping it small. It looks like he’ll have to employ someone soon however, as he deals with his ever-increasing popularity.
‘‘It’s pretty trippy to be honest... it sort of doesn’t feel quite real,’’ he says
Other prosperous market startups include House of Dumplings, which now sells dumplings in supermarkets countrywide, and Culley’s, which is selling hot sauces and spicy produce worldwide.
These businesses continue to frequent their original farmers’ markets, despite their increased size and success.
Wellington’s Harbourside Markets plays host to food trucks, producers and buskers, and it’s where Vicky Ha started her farreaching dumpling empire.
"It's a really, really good testing ground. Throughout the years there have been plenty that started [in markets], like I Love Pies, Pic's Peanut Butter..."
Vicky Ha, House of Dumplings
‘‘When I first started, I pretty much just wanted a job. And there was a demand for it. It all came as a surprise really,’’ she says.
With origins in China, Japan, Nepal and Korea, her range of dumplings struck a chord among customers, with varieties for wide-ranging dietary requirements. Ha has opened her own restaurant on Taranaki St, sells dumplings at other markets and has a range of products in supermarkets.
But none of it would have been possible without the farmers’ market, and the relatively low cost involved in setting up a stall.
Ha’s first day at Harbourside was a long one. She spent 17 hours churning out dumplings using two pasta makers, after being urged by friends to do so.
‘‘It’s a really, really good testing ground. Throughout the years there have been plenty that started [in markets], like I Love Pies, Pic’s Peanut Butter...’’
The direct feedback helps to inform changes and improvements. It’s the reason there’s always going to be a stall at Harbourside, says Ha.
‘‘I hate seeing food made behind doors. We all work really hard for it, and we’ve all got a little story.
‘‘People respect that you’re the producer, they actually see it,’’ she says. ’’I feel it’s part of who we are, it’s part of our identity.’’
Meanwhile hot sauce brand Culley’s is bringing spice to people all over the world, and can be found in supermarkets across New Zealand as well as Australia, the US and Canada. But it was south of Auckland where the brand made its start.
Chris Culley started working on the weekend at Clevedon Village Farmers’ Market, and he sold out on his first foray.
‘‘I came out with a fistful of cash and thought, ‘Shoot! Not bad,’’’ he says. It all grew from there, as he teamed up with others at the market to help provide varieties of chillis for his sauces. He eventually left his wellpaid job in IT and went full-time.
Six years later, Culley has a 45-strong range of award-winning sauces, chilli seeds, corn chips, pickles and marinades.
Like Ha, Culley’s crew are still at the farmers’ market every weekend, and he says there’s no plan to leave any time soon.
He compares his market experience to being a contestant on X-Factor or American Idol, where one can get critical feedback and find out whether a productis worthy. If it’s not, money won’t be made.
‘‘Some might say you’ve got a really good product, but [markets are] a really good way to test. There are thousands of people going through.
‘‘It’s a great place for market testing. Because they have known us for six years, they are bloody honest.’’