Slog it out on St James trail
At the end of our first day on the St James Cycleway, a 10-hour ride behind us, my partner Jenny sank onto a bunk at Anne Hut claiming it was one of the hardest days she had ever had.
The trail brochure had warned a good level of fitness was needed, but that should not put off those thinking of tackling the challenge.
The advice understates the largely flat track’s physicality, but burning legs are rewarded with the harsh beauty of the landscapes it rolls through.
Located just out of Hanmer Springs in North Canterbury, the track takes in some of the best of the St James Conservation Area. Those expecting mountains carpeted in the deep greens of beech forest will come away disappointed, the trail sticking more to rocky peaks and unforgiving alpine environment.
The area is famous for roaming wild horses. Though we were not lucky enough to see any this time around, abundant native bird-life made themselves known along the braided rivers.
The trail is a 64-kilometre pointto-point ride on gravel roads and tracks. Most riders leave their car about 20km out of Hanmer at the historical Tophouse Rd homestead where the trail finishes, and grind 25km up the gravel road to the start of the trail proper.
The easier ride is in the anticlockwise direction, as more of the climbing is done on the gentle road between the two ends. Several huts on the loop make it an ideal two-day trip, and good spots for a brief side-trip include mountain lakes and a natural hot pool.
We opted to take the 10km detour onto the St James walkway to Anne Hut. Built in 2012, it is a new breed of Department of Conservation hut – two 10-bed rooms, a large social area for cooking and mingling, and double glazing.
The bulk of the trail runs along Waiau River Valley, a braided river still bordered by snowcapped mountains in late spring. Though it mostly weaves through open terrain, there are sections of spiky Matagouri forest to navigate. It undulates gently, with no major climbs in the valley.
Getting in and out of the Waiau is a different story. Early in the ride, the 250-vertical-metre climb up Maling Pass tests the legs, but the is gentle enough and the descent to the Waiau River more than makes up for it.
Multiple river crossings on the slog home along Edwards River make for tough going. A steep prolonged climb to Peters Pass soon turned into a walk.
The effort is rewarded with a 7km descent to the finish with barely a pedal-stroke, the clear highlight of the trail. We felt we had truly earned our beer and hot chips back in Hanmer.
The St James Cycleway offers great views, but the distance offroad is a challenge not to be underestimated.
"At the end of our first day, a 10-hour ride behind us, my partner Jenny sank onto a bunk at Anne Hut claiming it was one of the hardest days she had ever had."
Sculpture on the Peninsula, Friday to Sunday
The South Island’s largest sculpture exhibition kicks off today on Loudon Farm in Teddington, Banks Peninsula. A record number of entries will be on display in this, the event’s 10th installation. The outdoor setting famously provides stunning contoured land features, with sculptures housed in everything from sheds and farm buildings, to verandahs and trees. All works are for sale with proceeds from the event going to Cholmondeley Children’s Centre.