The Press

Scenery saved the train

Ewan Sargent discovers that it’s easy to see why the TranzAlpin­e rail journey is a tourism winner.

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As the TranzAlpin­e train eases itself slowly out of Christchur­ch we get an interestin­g peek at the rears of business buildings and yards.

You see the truth from a train. While the fancy tiled and glass showroom fronts face the street, out the back by the train tracks, practicali­ty rules. No windows, tags on the walls, and untidy piles.

As we roll down to Rolleston before dog-legging inland properly, there’s more of this backyard chic. But it sets up what’s to come very nicely.

This is a good reminder of what the world of humans looks like and when we are peeking into nature’s backyard a little later it will be so much more amazing.

This is a celebratio­n train trip, with ceremonies at the Christchur­ch and Greymouth ends to mark 30 years since the TranzAlpin­e launch.

The fields are flashing past now and everyone has relaxed and settled into the rhythm of a train trip. We are in big, comfortabl­e seats surrounded by huge windows. Outside, the world slowly changes as if you are looking at a four-and-a-half hour nature movie.

Earphones plugged into the seat can tell you the story behind where you are if you want. And there’s also an open carriage to stand in and bob and sway to a soundtrack of wheels on rails and roaring tunnels.

The current TranzAlpin­e is the most upmarket yet. The prices reflect that. On that first trip on November 22, 1987, it cost $11 oneway between Christchur­ch and Greymouth (but the price quickly trebled).

Today, it costs an adult between $179 and $219 one-way, depending on how flexible you want that booking.

Onboard are some of the original staff who launched the service. It’s hard to believe now, but 30 years ago the idea of selling this scenery was odd.

Passenger rail travel then happened in grotty old railcars which reflected it was a cheap, unglamorou­s way to get from A to B. Rail was for people who wished they could do the trip in their own car. Passenger rail services were heading to oblivion, including the service between Christchur­ch and Greymouth.

John Bennett was the South Island manager who helped come up with the idea that maybe the coast-to-coast rail route could be sold as an event rather than as just transport.

And so the first cobbledtog­ether

It's hard to believe now, but 30 years ago the idea of selling this scenery was an odd idea.

TranzAlpin­e service arrived to test it with two flashed-up carriages, including one with extra big windows to look out of, as a trial, and a buffet car.

Bennett says sheepskin covers were put on seats and seats were in groups of four facing each other, with a table in between. This was more revolution because Kiwis had to look at strangers and maybe, horror, interact. Yes, Kiwis. The humble ‘‘market’’ for those first TranzAlpin­e trips was Christchur­ch people.

 ?? JOHN KIRK-ANDERSON/STUFF ?? The Waimakarir­i River looks gorgeous from the TranzAlpin­e Express train.
JOHN KIRK-ANDERSON/STUFF The Waimakarir­i River looks gorgeous from the TranzAlpin­e Express train.

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