Braving the tourist masses
Despite its perfect landscapes and Instagramready vistas, I was dubious of a weekend away to Lake Tekapo.
Anecdotes and media coverage dictated the town had been over-run by tourists. The eerily-blue lake water and iconic Church of the Good Shepherd have made the 300-oddpopulation town a staple on the South Island tourist trail, stacked daily with tintedwindowed buses driven by men in crumpled hats. Always an optimist though, I was keen to visit and decide for myself.
We drove the three hours southwest of Christchurch, a pie stop in Fairlie and a view of early-winter snow on the mountains a welcome sight after driving much of what has been touted the most boring drive in New Zealand.
The area still looked pioneering, with rocks and tussock strewn around the official entrance to the lake town. In classic holiday village style, residential development in Lake Tekapo was a mix of old baches, mansions and empty sections.
We were heading for Peppers Bluewater Resort after snagging an online deal for the place, five minutes walk from the ‘‘main drag’’. Before setting out we had a cuppa on the balcony, overlooking tourists lugging four-wheeled suitcases to their rooms.
In the early evening we took the short stroll around the corner to the shops. There were tourists everywhere, big-lens cameras hanging around necks, bobbing against shiny puffer jackets. Past the souvenir shops and tourist attraction booking offices, we found the Tin Plate Kitchen & Bar full of both locals and tourists, and serving good pizza.
After a few slices and glasses we emerged to what the region was best known for – the night sky. Above us millions of stars were visible, far more than could be seen in the city. The region is one of 12 accredited International Dark Sky reserves, encompassing Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park and the Mackenzie Basin.
Mt John Observatory is an operational research facility, on a hill alongside the town. Their night tours have become a major tourist attraction. At $150 per person they were beyond our shoestring budget but are said to be well worth the dosh. During the week of June 11, light from the moon will be minimal, so views of the Milky Way will be at their best.
Would I go back to Lake Tekapo and recommend it? Absolutely.