Norwegians love merino

New Zealand-grown merino wool is increasingly being sought by high-end Norwegian merino clothing company Devold, with farmer numbers supplying wool lifting from five to 15 in two years.

Devold garments have full traceability, with each one detailing the property the wool came from in a special sheep-toshop programme, said Craig Smith, general manager of Devold Wool Direct, responsible for sourcing wool from New Zealand, Australia and South America.

‘‘Growers need to have at least five tonnes of wool to have their name and brand put on the garment. A lot of New Zealand merino wool growers qualify for that. Each grower’s clip is processed separately at Devold’s mill in Lithuania and those garments are 100 per cent from that individual property. It is something wool growers have been asking for, for a long time and it is finally happening. Wool growers do a fantastic job with their wool and we want to capture that and take it right through to the garment. It also means we can give more feedback from the consumer back to the grower.’’

A characteristic of some farmers to produce long wool was also being rewarded. ‘‘In the past, some growers have been discounted for growing their wool too long, but we want it as long as we can get it to match the mill’s spinning techniques.’’

Wool was supplied using three-year revolving forward contracts. ‘‘So growers always have the option of contracting three years ahead.’’

Devold produces a range of clothing from 100 per cent merino wool, including base layers, mid layers, socks, scarfs and jackets.

While Australia was initially Devold’s main supplier of merino wool, greater volumes were now coming from New Zealand.

‘‘New Zealand growers are more aware of forward contracts and like them, whereas Australians prefer the auction system.’’

Three main micron types are used: 17.5 micron for base layers against the skin, 18.7 for jumpers and mid layers and 20.5 for jackets and outerwear.

Over the next few weeks Smith and four merino farming couples are travelling to Europe for the launch of the New Zealand sheep to shop programme at a trade fair in Germany.

Enjoying the scenery of the southern alps are, from left, Devold executives Cathrine Stange, Craig Smith and Tor Jonsson, with a new Devold merino wool supplier, Will Murray of Glenmore Station, Lake Tekapo.