Mourning walking tracks lost to quakes
Eight years after the earthquakes, Will Harvie remembers favourite walking tracks in Canterbury’s Port Hills and offers substitutes.
Redcliffs Cave
High above Barnett Park in Redcliffs there is a huge cave that used to be easily reached by a city council walking track and wooden stairs.
The reward was the cave itself, the views over the estuary and, of course, the walk.
There were tracks on both sides of the valley, meaning it was a loop and suitable for older primary school children.
But the walk is gone now, permanently closed by the 2010 and 2011 earthquakes.
The tracks still exist, more or less, but they are overgrown, boulder strewn, washed out and have been declared dangerous.
Repairs to the stairs and bridges were never made.
‘‘We ask that people follow the advice on the signs,’’ council head of parks Andrew Rutledge says.
‘‘There are plenty of walking tracks that are open across Christchurch.’’
For example, Eastenders Track up the east side of Barnett Park is open. It’s steep in places and leads to the Summit Rd or connects with tracks leading down to Richmond Hill or Sumner, making for loops.
There’s no cave but it’s a decent substitute walk with similar views.
Godley Head tunnel and searchlights
This was possibly the most unique walk in Canterbury.
During World War II, gun emplacements, bunkers, command posts and living quarters were fashioned from concrete at the heads overlooking Lyttelton Harbour, indeed all over the Port Hills. Many still exist and are worth a visit.
On a shoulder of Godley Head, soldiers dug a tunnel through sheer volcanic rock to sea level, where concrete searchlight pill boxes were sited.
The 110 metre-long tunnel was tall enough for an adult to walk upright and wide enough for two or three to walk abreast.
Windows were cut through one side for light, fresh air and views into the harbour.
It was the coolest walk but the tunnel was closed by rockfall in September 2010 and the searchlight structures were damaged and shifted in February 2011. The only way to visit the searchlight site today is by sea.
There is no walking substitute, although the walk between Taylors Mistake and Godley Head sort of suffices. A cabin associated with Captain Robert Falcon Scott, of Antarctica, has been conserved and recently added to the attractions at Godley Head.
Gorge track
Climbers still use the lower stages of Gorge Track to access bluffs above Hillsborough but the track that passed the climbing bluffs and continued up the Albert Stream gorge has been closed.
Even before the quakes, this was a rough track for the Christchurch area and these days fallen trees criss-cross the track and stream.
The whole plantation on these steep slopes seems dodgy.
This used to be a pleasing dark and dank alternative to the dry tussock walks on the higher Port Hills.
There is still a cleverly designed shelter, called a ‘‘meditation kiosk’’ by some, further up the hill and beside the open Dry Bush Track.
It can be reached by substitute tracks through Mt Vernon Park.
Some of these tracks are official and some semi-formed but all are delightful and feature long views towards the Christchurch CBD.
Bluff tracks above Lyttelton
The Department of Conservation (DOC) closed the Bluffs and Chalmers tracks in TauhinuKorokio Scenic Reserve above Lyttelton due to earthquake rockfall.
Large numbers of rocks are still sitting precariously among trees above the tracks, DOC biodiversity, recreation and historic conservation supervisor Craig Alexander says.
There are plenty of tracks meandering on either side of – and often crossing – the Port Hills divide. Almost all have reopened, including Major Hornbrook Track.
A memorial seat has been installed by the family of Owen Morris Wright, who died on this track in the 2011 earthquake.
The two closed tracks are not particularly missed due to many alternatives.
Fort Jervois and Ripapa Island
These historical sites were closed after the wharf and fort were damaged in the quakes. DOC promises to reopen the island this year, Alexander says.
Technically, this isn’t a walk because the 150-metre-long island can be reached only by boat.
But it’s a good spot and illustrates how long repairs take after natural disaster.
A valid substitute is O¯ tamahua (Quail Island), which is also an island and requires a boat to access.
The ship graveyard on the west side is excellent, the nature walks are intriguing and a bookable hut opened in October. It sleeps 12.
Other closures
The city council has also permanently closed these tracks: Castle Rock, Morgans Valley, north end of Captain Thomas track, and Mt Cavendish Bluffs. The council plans to reopen the Heathcote Quarry and Hidden Valley tracks when the budget allows.
DOC says some of tunnels at the Godley Head gun emplacements have been permanently closed.
DOC is still fixing the other buildings.