Ghee whizz it’s good!
The very first solid food my mother fed me as a baby in our southern India household was mashed-up rice mixed with a little ghee. This set the stage for my lifelong love affair with this nutty, rich, golden clarified butter.
Ghee has become a phenomenon, trending as a ‘‘superfood’’ and beloved by followers of the popular Keto diet. But its history – real and legendary – is long.
Ghee originated in India, where the heat was not conducive to storing butter for long periods. But when that butter was clarified – heated until the water evaporates and the milk solids separate away – the product had a long shelf life.
It is extensively consumed as part of a balanced diet and has been venerated through the ages for its medicinal properties in Ayurvedic medicine, which prescribes it as a cooling food, a digestive aid, and a salve to soothe burns. It is rich in vitamin A and is perfect for people who are lactose intolerant.
Without the milk solids of butter, ghee can be used for frying and other high-heat cooking. Refrigerate your ghee if you like, but it’s not a requirement and will keep at room temperature; it will solidify in the fridge but melt at room temperature or when heated.
Servings: 2 to 4
In this north Indian dish, the cauliflower receives layers of flavour, via pastes, steam and the heat of a high-temperature oven.
Make ahead:
The two pastes can be made a day in advance and refrigerated.
For the cauliflower:
1 medium head cauliflower, leaves removed
3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 small green chillies, stemmed, seeded if desired and coarsely chopped
1⁄ 12 10-12cm teaspoon piece garam peeled masala fresh (spice ginger blend) root, chopped
(3 to 4 tablespoons)
1 teaspoon chilli powder
3⁄4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
For the masala:
1 10-12cm piece peeled fresh ginger root, chopped
(3 to 4 tablespoons)
4 tablespoons coriander seeds
6 whole cloves
8 whole black peppercorns
1⁄2 teaspoon cumin seeds
4 whole cardamom pods
3 tablespoons whole almonds
1 2.5cm piece cinnamon stick
1⁄4 cup freshly grated coconut (unsweetened)
1⁄2 cup ghee, at room temperature
5 cloves garlic, crushed
1⁄2 large onion, chopped (3⁄4 cup)
3⁄4 teaspoon salt
1⁄4 cup plain full-fat yoghurt
1⁄2 cup chopped tomatoes
For the cauliflower: Rinse the cauliflower and pat it dry. Fill a pot with a few centimetres of water, then place a steamer basket/insert inside, making sure the level of water stays below the steamer.
Combine the garlic, green chilli, ginger, chilli powder and garam masala in a mini food processor, or use a mortar and pestle to create a coarse paste. Add the salt and lemon juice, pulsing or stirring to incorporate.
Rub this paste all over the cauliflower, getting some between the florets. Place the coated cauliflower in the steamer basket, cover and steam for three minutes, or until the vegetable is just tender enough to be pierced with the tip of a sharp knife. Remove from the heat.
For the masala: Combine the ginger, coriander seeds, cloves, black peppercorns, cumin, cardamom, almonds, cinnamon, and coconut in a spice grinder or mini food processor and grind to a coarse paste.
Heat half the ghee in a medium ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and onion and cook for about eight minutes, until softened, then stir in the masala paste and salt, then the yoghurt – one tablespoon at a time, stirring to incorporate.
Stir in the tomatoes and cook for seven to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they break down. This is your masala paste, which will lose moisture by the time it’s done, that’s OK. Remove from the heat and transfer the paste to a bowl to cool for a few minutes. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius.
Coat the cauliflower with half the masala, then place the cauliflower in the skillet. Dot the vegetable with the remaining softened ghee, then roast (top rack) for 15 minutes, during which time the masala paste will darken and the cauliflower will be tender throughout.
Remove the skillet from the oven; spread the remaining masala paste over the cauliflower, then return it to the oven to roast for five minutes more.
Transfer to a platter, along with any masala paste in the pan. Garnish with the coriander and serve hot, with steamed rice or Indian bread.
Adapted from a recipe by Padmasree Vardaraj of Chennai, India.