Luxury amid the clouds
In a secret location near the Kaiko¯ ura Ranges, there’s a little slice of heaven, Brook Sabin didn’t want to leave.
I’ve woken up above the clouds. It looks like Earth is wrapped in a woollen blanket. The sea of white extends as far as I can see – well beyond the distant Kaiko¯ ura Ranges. I’ve no idea what life is like below those clouds; it looks miserable. And cold.
But up here, our lodge is perched on the side of a large hill, and it feels like we’ve reached the accommodation version of heaven. We have a mountain-top spa, magnificent views from bed, a spectacular hillside bath, and more solitude than I know what to do with.
We’re at the recently opened Ma¯ tai Peak, tucked away in one of the most remote parts of Hurunui on a farm in Conway Flat – a coastal area between Cheviot and Kaiko¯ ura.
This is a piece of New Zealand few people get to see – the rugged coastal farmland is well away from State Highway 1.
But this isn’t any farm. Te Mania, as it’s known, is one of the best angus cattle stud farms in New Zealand, and our lodge overlooks it. The accommodation was once a shepherd’s hut, but has been meticulously renovated into a rustic luxury escape.
The original idea was to target international tourists, who would helicopter into ‘‘heaven’’ from Christchurch. The lodge’s website has a video of former All Blacks captain turned helicopter pilot Richie McCaw bringing guests to the retreat.
But Covid-19 has changed that. Kiwis aren’t that interested in helicopters and, instead, want value for money.
So, Ma¯ tai Peak now focuses on driving guests up a dramatic track in a four-wheel-drive. It’s the long road to heaven. But you get there.
After our spectacular 30-minute commute, we were greeted with a generous welcome platter of strawberries, salami, nuts, cheese, crackers, and Champagne. There was also a well-stocked mini bar, with drinks and more nibbles, included.
We took the snacks and drinks down to a deck, which extends out over the lip of the hill, and munched in peace.
Here, you won’t run out of places to relax. A spa pool is attached to the main hut, offering panoramic views by day. By night, it turns into a star spa. The area has no light pollution.
Up a small staircase is an outdoor bath, tucked away in the side of a hill. With the Kaiko¯ ura Ranges visible in the distance, it is undoubtedly one of the country’s best views from a bath. And then there is the master bedroom, offering great views without even lifting your head.
There was only one unfortunate thing about this version of heaven: my stay was temporary. Too soon, I was descending from the clouds back to reality.
Because you asked:
Is this a romantic retreat?
Unmistakably. You won’t be disturbed by anyone, and the spa, bath and deck are all places to unwind with a significant other.
However, the lodge can fit up to four, so bringing another couple is an excellent way to make it a little more affordable. The second bed is in the main living room.
Can I bring kids?
Yes, but they must be supervised because the terrain is steep and rugged. It’s more suited as an adults-only escape.
Is this a glamping site, or a lodge?
Both. I think of it as rustic luxury. Thanks to a communications tower on a nearby hill, there’s power to the hut, and no shortage of hot water. However, there is an outdoor walk to the shower and bath that’s in a separate building. It’s targeting the kind of people who love luxury and adventure.
The hut itself has a living room with board games, a bedroom overlooking the valley below, and an outdoor (but covered) kitchen and dining area, with a roaring fire to keep you warm at night.
How much?
The hut is usually $1500 a night, but is running a special for $2000 for two nights. Email Ma¯ tai Peak direct to secure the special. See: mataipeak.com.
Getting there
Ma¯ tai Peak is the latest attraction to open on the Alpine Pacific Touring Route, a road trip that starts in Christchurch, weaves past wineries, up to Hanmer Springs then on to Kaiko¯ ura. Once you book, you will be given instructions on how to reach the lodge. Otherwise, its location remains a secret.
The writer’s trip was supported by Hurunui NZ. Brook Sabin and Radha Engling travelled the length of New Zealand on a Stuff Travel nationwide road trip in a new Hyundai Kona Electric. The vehicle has 449km of real-world range on a single charge. For more information, see hyundai.co.nz/ kona-electric.