French road trip
The north of France is primed with possibilities for the visitor. The travel experts at Lonely Planet share their picks.
With stunning landscapes, superb highways and one of the world’s most scenic and comprehensive secondary road networks, France is a roadtripper’s dream come true.
Northern France is primed with possibilities – whether that means sampling Norman cheeses, getting close to World War I and WWII history, or simply moseying around Rouen’s old town. And with its abundance of coast and countryside, it’s a pleasure to drive, too.
It’s a region with a long (and turbulent) history that is plain to see. The scars of war can still be traced on the fields of Flanders and the beaches of Normandy. Elsewhere, be awed by the landscapes and villages that inspired artists such as Claude Monet.
The beaches and bluffs are quiet today, but on June 6, 1944 the Normandy shoreline witnessed the arrival of the largest armada the world has ever seen. This patch of the French coast will forever be synonymous with D-Day (known to the French as Jour-J), and the coastline is strewn with memorials, museums and cemeteries – reminders that though victory was won on the Longest Day, it came at a terrible price.
You’ll have heard the D-Day story many times before, but there’s nothing quite like standing on the beaches where this epic struggle played out.
D-Day marked the turning point of WWII and heralded the end for Nazism in Europe. Paying your respects to the soldiers who laid down their lives in the name of freedom is an experience that’ll stay with you forever. (For more background on D-Day, see normandiememoire.com and 6juin1944.com.)
More than any other site in northern France, the vast craterpocked battlefield at Vimy allows visitors to imagine the horrors of trench warfare.
A long tree-lined drive ushers you into the surreally serene landscape of grass-covered century-old bunkers where 3598 Canadian soldiers lost their lives in April 1917 while taking 14 kilometre-long Vimy Ridge from the Germans.
Climb to the ridgeline to see the striking allegorical WWI memorial, then visit the welcome centre (veterans.gc.ca/eng/ memorials) for a guided tour of the tunnels and trenches, preserved exactly as they were when the guns fell silent.
Musee d’Art Moderne Andre Malraux, a fantastic museum in Le Havre, houses a truly fabulous collection of impressionist works – the finest in France outside of Paris, with canvases by Monet, Eugene Boudin, Camille Corot and many more.
It was in Le Havre that Monet painted the defining impressionist view. His 1873 canvas of the harbour at dawn was entitled Impression: Sunrise.
Monet wouldn’t recognise present-day Le Havre. All but obliterated in September 1944 by Allied bombing raids, the city centre was totally rebuilt after the war by Belgian architect Auguste Perret. Make sure you also head north to the fashionable seaside suburb of Ste-Adresse – another favourite retreat for Monet.
Normandy may be the largest region of France not to contain a single vineyard, but its culinary wealth more than makes up for what it lacks in the wine department – besides, any selfrespecting Norman would far rather partake in a locally produced cider or Calvados.
This is a land of soft cheeses, apples, cream and an astonishingly rich range of seafood and fish. You simply shouldn’t leave Normandy without trying classics like coquilles St-Jacques (scallops) and sole dieppoise (Dieppe sole). And whatever you do, don’t forget your trounormand (‘‘Norman hole’’) – the traditional break between courses for a glass of Calvados to cleanse the palate and improve the appetite for the next course!
If ever a city needed no introduction, it’s Paris (en.parisinfo.com) – a trendsetter, fashion former and style icon for centuries, and still very much at the cutting edge. Whether you’re here to tick off the landmarks or seek out the secret corners, Paris fulfils all your expectations, and still leaves you wanting more.
Le Marais is one of the best areas for eating out, with its small restaurants and trendy bistros. Don’t miss Paris’ street markets:
AHigh season (July-August) – the main holiday season in France – expect traffic jams and big queues, especially in August. Christmas, New Year and Easter are also busy times to travel.
Shoulder season (April-June and September) – balmy temperatures, settled weather and light crowds make this an ideal time to travel. Hotel rates drop in busy areas such as southern France and the Atlantic coast. The vendange (grape harvest) happens in early autumn.
Low season (October-March) – expect heavy discounts on accommodation (sometimes as much as 50 per cent). Snow covers the Alps and Pyrenees, as well as much of central France. Many sights and hotels close down for winter. Late December to March is high season in French ski resorts.
Budget (less than 100) – double room in a budget hotel 50-70; set lunchtime menus 10-15.
Midrange (€100-200) – double room in a midrange hotel 70-120; a la carte mains 15-20.
Top End (over 200) – luxury hotel room 150-200; top-end restaurant meal, menus from 50, a la carte from 80.
Tipping – by law, restaurant and bar prices are service compris (include a 15 per cent service charge). Taxis expect around 10 per cent; round up bar bills to the nearest euro.