In search of succulent lamb
Golden Lamb Awards head judge Graham Hawkes has always had a passion for New Zealand red meat.
When he was invited to be the head judge for the competition, known as the Glammies, 10 years ago he was New Zealand’s only A-grade international culinary judge.
‘‘I’ve always had a passion for New Zealand red meat and certainly always had a passion for anything we could do to improve the eating quality of New Zealand red meat.’’
This year the competition received 144 farmer entries and 22 retail entries, with finalists to be announced this week. From there the finalists’ rumps will be judged over two rounds at the Wanaka A&P Show on March 10.
As well as finding the grand champion, this year the competition will be announcing the producer of the decade, an award celebrating the farmer who has consistently achieved over the years. Hawkes, of Invercargill, said the competition had changed dramatically through the years, with tighter competition for the grand champion title.
‘‘There’s always been a standout. In the early days there may be one or two standouts but now it’s much, much closer.’’
The quality of the meat had significantly improved, and it was much more difficult to find a clear winner, he said.
In the early days of the competition all of the rumps were barbecued, but to make it a fair playing field and release the true flavour of the lamb it was now sous-vide and then pan-fried, he said.
The three components for good lamb are tenderness, taste and succulence.
‘‘I guess that’s the ultimate for New Zealand to be able to identify itself as the producer of the most tender, tasty and succulent lamb.’’
Hawkes said there had often been times throughout the competition when the tenderness and taste were there but the succulence had been lacking.
‘‘It’s finding those three attributes that actually remain right through the whole tasting of it.’’
In his more than 50-year chef career Hawkes has seen the flavour of lamb evolve from strong to mild. That had been a good thing for the industry, with younger people enjoying the milder flavour, he said.
While most finalists were tightlipped about their on-farm secrets for producing tasty lamb, Hawkes put it down to good farm management. While there were arguments that genetics played a role, the weather and what the lambs had been fed usually shone through in eating quality, said Hawkes.
‘‘We see the passion in the farmers themselves, these farmers ooze of the passion they have for the stock themselves.’’
The competition itself was a great way to showcase the best of New Zealand lamb, Hawkes said.
‘‘For what it’s done its really encouraged farmers to get out there and actually produce the best in the country.’’
It had also been great to see the pride the farmers took in what they had been able to produce, he said.
Joining Hawkes in the judging will be Beef + Lamb ambassador chefs of Steve Beere, of Napier, Alistair Forster, of Nelson, Scott Kennedy, of Palmerston North, and Shaun Clouston, of Wellington.
They will judge the final 20 rumps.
‘‘We’re there to judge the final 20 and there’s not one of those 20 you wouldn’t want to be in a restaurant or in your home. We’ve never struck a dud yet,’’ Hawkes said.