Lingerie 101

Finding a great-fitting, great-looking bra will change your life – here’s how (and why).

These days, we’re ever more spoiled for choice when it comes to lingerie, but the actual task of finding pieces, especially bras, that fit well and function the way we need them to doesn’t seem to be getting a whole lot easier.

I recently caught up with Triumph’s professional fitter Paula Svoboda – who has fitted more than 50,000 women over 17 years – to find out some of her top tips and tricks.

First things first, before you even hit the shops, Svoboda says to think about the kinds of bras you enjoy wearing, what clothes you’ll be wearing your lingerie under, what you already have in your underwear drawer and what might be missing – styles, shapes, colours and materials included.

She says it’s important to be aware of any issues you are currently having with your bras – if your straps fall down, if bands dig in or you experience chafing under your arms, for example, Svoboda says it’s likely you’ve been wearing the wrong size bra.

The importance of being properly fitted

– by a professional fitter if possible – can’t be stressed enough.

“Most women believe that breast sag is often due to the size of your breasts, but this is not the case,” she says.

“Wearing an ill-fitting bra, and therefore not getting the right support, can cause irreversible breast sag.

“The stress of movement on the breast is what causes the fatty tissue and ligaments to stretch and sag over time, irrespective of your size, and it doesn’t go back.

“Even if you are a double A it is as important to wear a correctly supportive bra as if you’re a double D.”

According to Svoboda, there are six key factors to take into account when trying on bras to ensure you have the perfect fit.

Underwire – The underwire should go around the entire contour of the breast and the front of the bra should sit flat against your chest. If you feel the wires are digging in or resting on breast tissue that’s a big sign you’re in the wrong size.

Under band – Eighty per cent of bust support comes from the under band, so you need to ensure that remains firm, yet comfortable. If the shoulder straps are falling off then the bra is too big for your diaphragm – try going down a size in the band. Check that the back of the bra is sitting level with the front. If it’s riding up or sliding around as you move, it means the band is too big and you need to wear a smaller band size.

Hooks – If you have a larger bust, finding a supportive bra is even more important. Go for styles with thicker straps and a wider band with more hooks. Three band hooks or more will help to keep your bust in line, and the thicker straps will provide increased leverage.

Straps – The straps should feel firm and comfortable and shouldn’t be digging in or sliding down the shoulders.

Coverage – Look for good coverage at the side and top of the breast. Fabric should be firm over the bust. If your breasts are not filling the cup or there’s excess flesh spilling over the top and sides of the bra, you’re wearing the wrong cup size.

Sizing – Always remember that no two bras offer exactly the same level of support or will fit the same way – even if they have the same size on the tag. Sizes change between brands and even sometimes within a single brand’s different styles.

Good lingerie is an investment, so it’s also worth taking care of it. Svoboda says it’s best to wash bras after every wear – contrary to popular belief, a bra won’t last longer if washed less often, as the fibres in lingerie retain their “memory” when washed frequently.

The best way to wash it is by hand, in a woolwash or mild detergent, but if you do need to use the washing machine, make sure to use a lingerie wash bag and a gentle/ delicates cycle, again using a woolwash or mild detergent.

To dry, Svoboda says always hang lingerie on a washing line or clothes airer rather than putting it in the dryer, “because the wires can play havoc with the machine, resulting in costly repairs”. Dryers are also “really hard on the delicate fabrics and elastics”.

Colourwise, the classics – black, white and nude – are still the bestsellers, as you might expect. But Svoboda says Triumph’s “Blue Sapphire” colourway has performed particularly well, despite only being released recently. Almost every brand I look at has some beautiful blue offerings. There’s also plenty of pretty pastel and floral pieces to put you in a spring mood.