The heart of God’s country
Tatyana Leonov is spellbound by the Deep South.
The South Island is what I think of when I hear the term ‘‘God’s country’’. Soaring snow-capped mountains slash at blankets of thick cloud; mammoth lakes sparkle like liquid silver; and deep green valleys weave their way through the dramatic landscape.
And sheep are almost always included in these scenes – there are more than 27 million of them in New Zealand, according to the last count. To put this in perspective, the population is just over 4.75 million.
Right now, however, my husband and I are keeping our eyes peeled for yellow-eyed penguins, or to use their Ma¯ ori name, ho¯ iho.
This endangered penguin species is only found on the Eastern and Southern coasts of the South Island, and on the Otago Peninsula a tour with Penguin Place offers one of the best chances to see them in the wild. We’re part of a group of eight, slowly walking through trench-like tunnels and peeking through holes trying to spot a cute critter or two.
A couple of the rare penguins are sighted about an hour into the tour, one warming an egg in its cosy nest and another resting on a nearby rock.
During the two-hour outing we also see seals basking in the warm sun, and our guide tells us that this is probably one of just a few spots in the world where you can observe seals and sheep sunning themselves side by side.
‘‘I’ve seen seals up on the mountains and sheep by the shoreline,’’ he says. ‘‘That’s New Zealand.’’
That night, while dining at Larnach Castle, I learn that the peninsula is also home to the only mainland breeding colony of albatross in the world. I’m not sure what impresses me more, this information or the fact that I’m sitting around a colossal table in a lavish ballroom inside New Zealand’s only castle.
And we get to sleep here, too.
The dinner-in-the-castle experience is reserved for guests staying in the castle grounds, with three types of accommodation available. We’re staying in one of the lodge rooms, which all have spectacular views of the Otago harbour and peninsula.
Larnach Castle and the nearby Otago Peninsula are just two of many stops on our self-drive tour from Queenstown to Christchurch, a trip that sees us traverse hundreds of kilometres over eight days.
More than 70 per cent of Australians self-drive when visiting New Zealand, so in a way we are following the masses, yet we never feel like we are part of a crowd. Sometimes we share the road with a few others, while other times we feel quite solitary. Bliss.
The Catlins, perhaps the country’s most underrated patch of paradise, is an area on the southeast tip of the island. Roads weave their way past grass-carpeted fields filled with grazing sheep, making for perfect photos.
There’s also a rugged coastline, home to the fascinating Curio Bay, which has a petrified forest dating to the Jurassic period.
We spend a couple of hours there, first visiting Tumu Toka CurioScape, an information centre with interactive touchscreens and an immersive theatre, along with a cafe and gift shop.
We then stroll along the coastal cliffs and beach, looking for penguins and petrified wood.
Further inland, lush rainforests and teeming waterfalls create a different mood. McLean Falls and Purakaunui Falls are two of the best known cascades and we make time to visit both.
We spend the night at Catlins Mohua Park, and if we didn’t have anywhere else to be, we’d stay a lifetime.
Four cottages are dispersed across a large area, with bushwalking trails and personalised eco tours conducted by owners and hosts Gill and Lyndon. Check-in is a casual ‘‘hello’’ and then it’s up to you whether you want human interaction (Gill and Lyndon can cook up a storm for guests to enjoy together), or quiet time to soak up the surrounds. We have our own supplies and once we’re settled in it’s just us, the picturesque hills and the sheep.
Driving from one point to another I realise that what makes this road trip remarkable is the diverse variety of experiences on offer.
If you want to ramp up the adrenaline and be hurled off a cliff, you can. But if you simply want to drive around stopping for coffee, hokey pokey icecream and fabulous views, you can do that, too.
Our two days in Queenstown include gondola rides and breathtaking views, a relaxing cruise, too much icecream (Patagonia Chocolates, a shout-out to you), and an almost near-terrifying experience that is the Nevis Catapult.
I was all kitted up and ready to soar, but due to wind conditions my jump was cancelled. We went to Fergburger instead for arguably the best burgers in the country.
Another highlight of our road trip is how little distance we have to drive to get from one destination to another, as there is plenty to see in close proximity. We average two to three hours’
driving a day, taking our time enjoying the scenery along the way and each place that we stop at.
There is a tendency to want to fit everything in, to cram in the sights, but as seasoned travellers we’ve learnt that seeing less is seeing more.
Our biggest drive day is a return trip from
Te A¯ nau to Milford Sound. With stops, it’s more than three hours each way, but it’s well worth it.
Long drives on windy roads often lull me to sleep, but there was no way I was missing out on even a minute of these implausibly beautiful views.
I don’t think I’ve ever fought sleep as much as I did while seated in the passenger seat that day, but New Zealand is one destination you don’t want to miss a second of.
More of the South Island Hanmer Springs
New Zealand is home to an abundance of natural hot springs, and those in the alpine town of Hanmer Springs are well worth a visit. Kick back in a hot pool (sulphur pools, water jets and rock pools to name a few options), surrounded by snowcapped mountains. Truly spectacular.
Franz Josef Glacier
This is one of the country’s most interesting glaciers – New Zealand is home to thousands – due to its unique glacial environment, a place where ice, rainforest and the Waiho River all meet.
Aoraki/Mt Cook
The country’s highest mountain, at 3754 metres, is the star of its namesake national park. There are 19 other mountains rising more than 3000 metres in the park, so walkers and climbers have plenty of choice. Aoraki/Mt Cook Village is located within the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve, which makes for some of the best stargazing in the world.
Stewart Island
More than 85 per cent of New Zealand’s third largest island, 30km south of the South Island, is national park, so it’s no surprise hikers and wildlife enthusiasts, particularly birdwatchers, flock there.
Marlborough
The largest wine region in New Zealand is best known for its sauvignon blanc, with the white grape variety accounting for about 80 per cent of the wine produced there. With more than 30 cellar doors in close proximity, wine lovers will be busy.