In the Eternal City
There are plenty of reasons why Italy’s hot-blooded capital is one of the world’s most charismatic cities.
An intoxicating cocktail of haunting ruins, iconic monuments, awe-inspiring art, and vibrant street life, Italy’s hot-blooded capital is one of the world’s most charismatic cities. It’s la dolce vita (the sweet life) at its Italian best. Rome’s cityscape, the result of 3000 years of ad hoc urban development, is an exhilarating spectacle. Ancient icons such as the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Pantheon recall its golden age as caput mundi (capital of the world), while its basilicas testify to its historical role as the seat of the Catholic Church.
The city’s artistic heritage is also astonishing. Throughout history, Rome has starred in the great upheavals of Western art, drawing the top artists of the day and inspiring them to push the boundaries of creative achievement.
The result is a city awash with priceless treasures. Ancient statues adorn world-class museums; Byzantine mosaics and Renaissance frescoes dazzle in art-rich churches; and baroque fountains embellish medieval piazzas. Walk around the centre and, without even trying, you’ll come across masterpieces by the likes of Michelangelo, Caravaggio, Raphael and Bernini.
But a trip to Rome is as much about lapping up the local lifestyle as feasting on art and culture. Whiling away hours on a sun-baked cafe terrace, getting lost in backstreet alleys and hidden piazzas, indulging in sunset aperitivi (evening drinks) in on-trend cocktail bars, dining after dark in raucous neighbourhood trattorias – all this, too, is part and parcel of the exquisite Roman experience.
What’s new
SUPER ticket
This ticket is a new pass covering the Colosseum, Palatine Hill and Roman Forum.
Costing €6 (NZ$10) more than the regular entrance ticket, it’s valid for two days and gives access to a series of extra ‘‘internal’’ sights, such as the Museo Palatino, which are off-limits to regular ticket-holders.
Wine culture
Wine aficionados on the lookout for new labels will enjoy Rimessa Roscioli (winetastingrome.com).
Brought to you by Rome’s foodie Roscioli family, it’s a wine bar-bistro where tastings are tailored to your preferences and wines are paired with Italian food. In Testaccio, natural-wine specialist Barnaba (facebook.com/ barnabawinebarecucina) is the new hot ticket.
VyTa Enoteca Regionale del Lazio
Roman architect Daniela Colli is the contemporary design talent behind VyTA Enoteca Regionale del Lazio (vytaenotecalazio.it/en), a superglam wine bar-restaurant with sleek interiors and gourmet food and wine from Rome’s surrounding Lazio region.
Niji Roma
Rome’s love affair with craft cocktails shows no sign of waning, as witnessed by Niji Roma (facebook.com/niji.cafe.roma), a mellow, stylish and tastefully cool Trastevere bar.
Fashion openings
Women yearning for elegant yet comfortable fashions are well served at Roman designer Livia Risi’s Trastevere boutique. In the historic centre, effortlessly chic new concept store Chez Dede (chezdede.com) showcases everything from bags and ceramics to limited-edition perfumes.
Top experiences Colosseum
A monument to raw, merciless power, the Colosseum (parcocolosseo.it) is the most thrilling of Rome’s ancient sights.
It was here that gladiators met in mortal combat and condemned prisoners fought off wild beasts in front of baying, bloodthirsty crowds. Two thousand years on and it’s Italy’s top tourist attraction, drawing more than six million visitors a year.
Top tip:
Beat the queues – buy your ticket at Palatine Hill (Via di San Gregorio 30).
Don’t miss:
The Belvedere (top three tiers) and the hypogeum’s network of dank tunnels beneath the main arena. Visits require advance booking and cost an extra €9 (NZ$15.50).
Vatican Museums
Founded in the 16th century, the Vatican Museums (museivaticani.va) boast one of the world’s greatest art collections.
Highlights include spectacular classical statuary, rooms frescoed by Raphael, and the Michelangelo-decorated Sistine Chapel.
Don’t miss:
Raphael’s last painting, La Trasfigurazione (Transfiguration), in the Pinacoteca.
Top tips:
To avoid queues, book tickets online (biglietteriamusei.vatican.va/musei/tickets/do; plus €4 (NZ$7) booking fee).
Up to a third of the Vatican is covered by the perfectly manicured Vatican Gardens. Visits are
by guided tour only, on foot (two hours) or by openair bus (45 minutes). Book at least a week in advance.
Minimising the crowds:
Tuesdays and Thursdays are the quietest days to visit.
Wednesday mornings are also good.
On other days, afternoons are better than mornings. Avoid Mondays, when many other museums are shut, and rainy days.
St Peter’s Basilica
In this city of outstanding churches, none hold a candle to St Peter’s (vatican.va), Italy’s largest, richest and most spectacular basilica.
Don’t miss:
Climbing the (numerous, steep and tiring, but worth it) steps of the dome for views over Rome.
Top tip:
Strict dress codes are enforced: no shorts, miniskirts or bare shoulders.
Local knowledge:
Near the main entrance, a red floor disc marks the spot where Charlemagne and later Holy Roman emperors were crowned by the Pope.
Pantheon
A striking 2000-year-old temple, now a church, the Pantheon (pantheonroma.com) is Rome’s bestpreserved ancient monument, and one of the Western world’s most influential buildings.
The Pantheon’s greying, pockmarked exterior may look aged, but inside it’s a different story: it is both unique and exhilarating to pass through its vast bronze doors and gaze up at the largest unreinforced concrete dome ever built.
Top tip:
Mass is celebrated at the Pantheon at 5pm on Saturdays and 10.30am on Sundays.
Don’t miss:
The seven-metre-high bronze doors provide a suitably grand entrance to the rotunda.
Museo e Galleria Borghese
Housing what’s often referred to as the ‘‘queen of all private art collections’’, this spectacular gallery (galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it) boasts some of the city’s finest art treasures.
Find it, moreover, gracefully languishing in the green beauty of Rome’s most celebrated park.
Don’t miss:
Canova’s Venere Vincitrice, his sensual portrayal of Pauline Bonaparte.
Top tips:
Prebook your ticket. Bring ID to collect it 30 minutes before your pre-allocated entry time.
Monday is not a good time for exploring Villa Borghese. Sure, you can walk in the park, but its museums and galleries are all shut. They are only open Tuesday to Sunday.
This is an edited extract from the 4th edition of Lonely Planet’s Best of Rome guidebook, curated by Nicola Williams, and researched and written by Alexis Averbuck, Duncan Garwood and Virginia Maxwell © 2019. RRP: NZ$34.99; lonelyplanet.com.