Before Waitangi signing there was Marsden Cross
Ask anyone where the birthplace of New Zealand’s nationhood is, and they will probably say Waitangi.
But while Waitangi is historically important for the signing of the Declaration of Independence in 1835 and Te Tiriti o Waitangi in 1840, Hugh Rihari argues the birthplace of the nation is actually Marsden Cross.
The spot on Purerua Peninsula, north of Kerikeri, is where Samuel Marsden held the first Christian service on Christmas Day, 1814, and established the first Pa¯keha¯ settlement.
Rihari (Nga¯ti Torehina, Te Hikutu and Nga¯ti Rua) is a kaitiaki (guardian) of Rangihoua Heritage Park, which includes Marsden Cross and was officially opened in 2014. The park includes paths, interpretive signs, an audio tour and an impressive open-air visitor centre, which was named Rore Ka¯hu after the harrier hawk.
But while all the information is there for the taking, Rihari said he was often disappointed by how little people know of the history of Rangihoua and Marsden Cross.
‘‘I knew that from growing up and going to school here – we were taught such irrelevant things,’’ he said.
‘‘Even the kids today haven’t heard of it. They’ve heard of Marsden Cross as a place to have a picnic, but it’s not until they do the walk, perhaps twice, that they learn how important this place is, in terms of the coming together of Ma¯ori and Pa¯keha¯.’’
Rihari said the history of Rangihoua and Marsden Cross goes back to 1805 when his ancestor, Te Pahi, was invited to Sydney by New South Wales Governor Phillip King.
Te Pahi was presented with a medal and a prefabricated house, with the aim of establishing trade between the Bay of Islands and Sydney. Te Pahi’s companion and fellow chief, Ruatara, also formed a connection with Samuel Marsden, and later helped him buy part of Rangihoua for his first mission settlement in New Zealand.
The price for the 80 hectares of land was 12 axes or hatchets, which Rihari said helped Ma¯ori improve production on their land.
When the missionaries arrived in 1814, the relationship was mostly peaceful despite a lack of Christian conversions, and both cultures were interested in learning and exchanging ideas, he said.
But Ma¯ori relationships with Pa¯keha¯ soured when the nonmissionary settlers became too out of control, including selling muskets to Ma¯ori. Nga¯puhi chiefs eventually lobbied King William IV to take control of the Europeans, a series of events that led to Te Tiriti o Waitangi.
Rihari said anyone interested in learning about New Zealand’s history should come to Rangihoua and Marsden Cross first, before they visit Waitangi.
‘‘This is the birthplace of our nation. Whatever happens in Waitangi or wherever else, it started here,’’ he said.
‘‘It’s got a mixed bag of history here, but the thing that people remember most is the relationship that was fostered here.’’
Rihari admitted the site was disadvantaged by a ‘‘bloody dangerous’’ unsealed road and is a bit off the beaten track.
But it was saved from development in 1999 and bought by the Marsden Cross Trust at a discounted rate, on the condition that the importance of the site’s history was re-established.
The bicentenary of the landing in 2014 marked the official opening of the park, and since then Rihari has been doing his very best to impart the history.
How to get there
Rangihoua Heritage Park is on Oihi Rd, 40 minutes from Kerikeri and four hours from Auckland.
Allow plenty of time for driving on the unsealed roads.
The walk to Marsden Cross takes 20 to 30 minutes, and is much more pleasant going down than coming up.
Take sunblock and water on a hot day.