Roast cauli, Lebanese style
Gemmayze Street, one of Auckland’s most acclaimed new restaurants, shares a recipe from its menu.
Anew kid on the block, Gemmayze Street was one of the first places to make its home in the revamped and beautified St Kevins Arcade, on Auckland’s Karangahape Rd.
The historical arcade had needed a bit of a tidy up, and Gemmayze Street, a family-run, modern Lebanese restaurant, was the perfect candidate to take up the back corner.
In the kitchen is Samir Allen, one of New Zealand’s most exciting young chefs. Allen cut his teeth as a sous chef under Ben Bayly at The Grove before a stint travelling, including to Lebanon, where his family has roots. On his return to Auckland, Allen opened Gemmayze Street with his family. His mother, Liane Farry, runs the front of house, and his brother is sometimes on the floor.
Mezze is the order of the day, with the dishes designed to share – although you should probably just order ‘‘jeeb’’, the feast, and have the chef feed you.
As true to their Lebanese roots as possible, the drinks list has a selection of Lebanese wines and beers, and some surprises in the spirits list, too. The fine-dining training is evident in Allen’s approach, but this is also generous, creative, inspired food.
With dishes such as pheasant ravioli with yoghurt, mint and pine nuts, and koussa – a baked halloumi dish with hazelnuts and fried courgette – it’s contemporary, interesting food that inspires repeat visits.
The desserts have built up a bit of a cult following of their own, with the signature ba’alewa icecream sandwich – a rich green, creamy pistachio parfait sitting between caramelised filo, topped with pink rose candy floss – becoming a huge hit.
Roasted cauliflower steak with golden raisins and almonds
Serves 2 to share
Verjuice raisins:
❚ 100g golden raisins
❚ 100ml verjuice
Cauliflower steaks:
❚ 2 heads cauliflower
❚ 100ml canola oil
Cauliflower couscous:
❚ Cauliflower trim (from cauliflower above)
Caramelised cauliflower puree:
❚ 20ml canola oil
❚ 250g cauliflower couscous (see above)
❚ 4 cloves garlic, crushed
❚ 1 sprig thyme
❚ Zest of 1 lemon
❚ 100ml water
To serve:
❚ Few drops sherry vinegar
❚ Toasted sliced almonds
❚ Chiffonade of flat-leaf parsley
For the verjuice raisins, place the raisins and verjuice in a saucepan and bring to the boil, then set aside to cool.
For the cauliflower steaks, cut steaks from cauliflower by slicing it into thick strips. Cut from the bottom through the stalk end – you should get 2-3 steaks per cauliflower. Reserve all of the cauliflower trim for the puree and couscous.
Heat oil in a large pan and fry cauliflower steaks for about 5 minutes each side, until golden brown and tender.
For the cauliflower couscous, place cauliflower trim in a food processor and pulse until it resembles couscous.
For the caramelised cauliflower puree, heat canola oil in a large pan over a medium heat.
Add 250g of the cauliflower couscous, garlic, thyme and lemon zest. Cook for 30-45 minutes, or until cauliflower is a deep goldenbrown colour. Add water and stir gently to deglaze the pan. Transfer cauliflower mixture to a food processor and blend until smooth. Check seasoning and adjust as necessary.
To serve, spread puree on a serving dish. Place a steak on top and season with sherry vinegar. Spoon piles of couscous around the plate, and sprinkle with verjuice raisins and toasted sliced almonds. Garnish with parsley.
Chef’s note: To toast the almonds, preheat oven to 160 degrees Celsius and bake on a flat tray for about 10 minutes.
❚ Extract reproduced with permission from New Zealand Restaurant Cookbook by Delaney Mes; recipe © Gemmayze Street. Photography © Liz Clarkson, 2017. Published by Penguin NZ; RRP $50. Out now.