One to cherish
A carefully considered makeover should ensure The Cook retains that special place in locals’ hearts, writes Denise Irvine.
It’s a pleasure to see the care that’s been taken to freshen up the vintage Cook bar in Hamilton East. The Cook has a special place in many hearts and, in a suburb where old buildings are typically pulled down rather than preserved, you’d never want to see this one messed with. Built in 1874, it’s variously been an Odd Fellows Lodge, a soap factory, corset factory, dance hall, Buffalo Lodge, and a neighbourhood pub since 2002.
I’ve enjoyed many gatherings at The Cook, including one not-so-happy occasion when a bunch of us bombed in a pub quiz. We clearly didn’t know enough about celebrity break-ups and make-ups to get on the board.
Anyway, The Cook has changed hands and it reopened in November as Cook Street Social, the newest member of Good George’s Brew Bar and Taphouse family. The good folk at Good George have refurbished the lofty wooden building with a light touch, respecting its strong bones and singular atmosphere.
It has some comfy booth seating, an illuminated old-style cinema sign above a cool new bar and, of course, there are shiny steel tanks dispensing beer and cider fresh from the Good George mothership in Frankton.
Six of us fetched up at Cook Street Social for dinner on a Thursday night; the place was buzzing, it still felt pretty new but service systems were solidly in place. We were well looked after by a high-energy waiter with a high-wattage smile. There were similar friendly welcomes from other staff when I called in a bit later for a quick lunch of prawn and avocado tacos. (Tasty, but maybe go easy on the mayo.)
The kitchen is delivering robust, familiar pub food to a decent standard. There are separate lunch and dinner menus, with some crossover, offering salads, pizzas, tacos, burgers, trays of slow-smoked meats, and mains such as fish and chips, confit duck leg, scotch fillet and more. It’s priced above cheap eats and for this you get quality ingredients, attention to detail, and thoughtfully chosen glassware, plates, trays and cutlery.
Our table covered off a goodly chunk of the dinner mains and there wasn’t a bum note among them. Same with the churros, brioche donuts, sundae and sticky date pud that we shared for dessert.
I was starving on this night because somehow I’d missed lunch. To make up for it, I had the substantial southern fried chicken burger with chipotle, apple slaw, fries and aioli. The chipotle gave some heat to the chicken, the slaw provided freshness, the fries were decently crunchy and fluffy in the right places and the light brioche bun a perfect vehicle for the ingredients. Nice.
Similarly, the market fish – panfried snapper on crushed spuds with cauliflower and pesto – got a good review from our crowd, as did beer-battered fish and chips with punchy fennel slaw, a juicy scotch fillet topped with blue cheese butter, and creamy polenta with mushroom ragout, greens, crispy gnocchi and parmesan.
There were some of Good George’s fine brews at our table, along with wine from a list of reliable outfits including Jules Taylor, Lake Chalice, Mills Reef and Matawhero. (A few more adventurous choices needed in the wine department.)
We were well-watered and fed, and well-looked after. All in the comfort of an old fave in our own neighbourhood.