From the editor

TV shows about baking have become wildly popular, lately. Nailed It, Zumbo’s Just Desserts, Cake Boss, The Great British Bake Off… but to be honest, I don’t get the appeal of watching other people cook. WHEN DO I GET TO EAT THE CAKES?

Oh, never? Sounds like some sick new form of torture to me, not entertainment. Nevertheless, I realise I am in a dwindling minority and, as The Great Kiwi Bake Off prepares to take us all by storm, I have gleaned some insight into its allure.

Frances Walsh is a very funny writer and the author of a strangely moving history of the New Zealand housewife. She rang me after interviewing a contestant (page 8) over the phone. The call was monitored by a TV publicist, who wished to protect a subject unused to media attention and make sure no spoilers leaked, but Frances found the practice a little heavy-handed.

What do they think I’m going to ask, she wondered, and we giggled as we tried to come up with unduly hardball questions. ‘‘Do you believe Christine Blasey Ford?’’

‘‘Where do you stand on Brexit?’’

‘‘Should te reo Ma¯ori be compulsory in our schools?’’ Producers had warned Frances that the show would include shock twists. ‘‘Like gluten?’’ we hazarded, finding ourselves hilarious.

For a minute there, the world of baking felt like a nice reprieve from an increasingly depressing and divided world. Surely, anything that begins with the magical union of butter (room temperature!) and sugar can’t be that bad? Surely we can find unity in a custard slice?

Ah, but British Bake Off has just introduced vegan week. And sugar, come to think of it, is linked to slavery and obesity...