M&S goes baa baa over NZ lambswool
New Zealand wool is front and centre in a new menswear range from UK retail giant Marks & Spencer.
The responsibly produced range is one of the first in the world made with wool certified under the global Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) and features New Zealand lambswool.
Rosstan Mazey, chief executive of Wools New Zealand (WNZ), said the crossbred wool came from RWS-accredited WNZ growers and was more traditionally used in carpet.
‘‘It’s a big step for crossbred wool and it’s tremendously exciting to see our wool moving into high-end attire,’’ Mazey said.
‘‘It also validates our ongoing investment in the technologies and assurance programmes that allowed this to happen.’’
In the past decade, demand for New Zealand’s higher-micron crossbred wool has fallen, along with national sheep numbers, which plummeted from 40 million to under 30 million.
A micron is the measurement of wool fibre diameter – the lower the micron number, the finer the wool and the lighter the garment.
Merino wool usually measures 15-25 microns while the lambswool used in the M&S range was between 28 and 31 microns, Mazey said.
The wool fabric being used by M&S is manufactured by Abraham Moon & Sons, based in Yorkshire.
The menswear range itself is being made in Vietnam and includes six blazers, which will sell for £149 (NZ$308), and two waistcoats, each with a £69 (NZ$143) pricetag.
Steven Parsons, brand and business development manager for Wools of New Zealand in the UK, said the RWS was imagined and developed as the global standard for growing wool in 2016.
‘‘Wools of New Zealand have joined a rapidly growing number of international brands and the Textile Exchange as strong advocates for RWS as a global wool production standard,’’ he said.
The standard provided an assurance to consumers that the wool they were buying had been grown to the highest possible standards across farm management and animal welfare.
‘‘M&S represent a powerful partner in that respect, as they are able to influence the value chain and change attitudes towards fibre production,’’ Parsons said.
‘‘There is a new reality out there for both producers and retailers and that is they need to be responsible for driving supply chains towards true sustainability.’’
Phil Townsend, M&S raw materials specialist, said the retailer was excited to be among the first to launch an RWS-certified range.
‘‘[We are] delighted to have a played a significant role in its development along with the Textile Exchange and many other committed partners,’’ he said.
‘‘Transparent sourcing shows a clear commitment to supporting progressive standards of animal welfare, grassland management and traceability across the wool sector, which we know is very important to our customers.’’
Mazey said there were currently 14 grower shareholders accredited under the RWS across New Zealand.
‘‘Through the launch of this new product we anticipate increased interest in our wool and RWS credentials.
‘‘We expect more of our growers to become RWS certified as market demand builds.’’
‘‘It’s a big step for crossbred wool and it’s tremendously exciting.’’
Rosstan Mazey