Makeup is no match for good skin
Three experts offer help to build better habits in taking care of your skin, rather than covering up imperfections, writes Nicole Economos.
For many, makeup took a back seat in 2020. For others, it’s been a case of taking time to experiment with their skincare routine.
And even though the pandemic has made us feel like we are stuck in a loop of the unknown, the expiry clock is still ticking on our beauty products.
For your skin’s sake, it’s time to take stock, and toss out the old mascara in the bottom of your makeup bag, or the expired serum at the back of your bathroom cupboard.
From there, why not consider some new skin regimes. Ahead, three experts offer guidance for creating a skincare routine you won’t give up on. And, more importantly, one that achieves skin you won’t want to cover up.
First, out with the old
Most products provide two ways to decipher their lifespan: an expiry date, and a POA (period after opening) – indicated within an open jar symbol, with a number and an M for months, usually printed at the bottom of the packaging.
‘‘Products aren’t made to last forever, and your skin won’t necessarily need the same products in 6-12 months,’’ says Melbourne-based dermal therapist James Vivian.
‘‘If you don’t use a product by its use-by-date, you won’t target your current skin concerns.
‘‘Ideally you are buying products to improve or fix a problem, and once they’re finished you move to stronger ones or the next stage of management and repair. Plus, the potency and effectiveness of active ingredients diminish over time.’’
Skincare
If the above indicators are missing, there are other telltale signs your products are ready for the bin. Both Vivian, and Terri Vinson, author of
Skinformation: A Clean Science Guide to Beautiful
Skin, suggest looking out for key changes in fragrance, texture and colour change.
‘‘Alteration in odour, particularly in products containing oil, is usually a sign that’s it’s gone rancid through oxidation,’’ says Vinson, the cosmetic chemist behind Synergie Skin.
‘‘Change in texture or separation like a curdle, means the emulsifier that holds the product’s oil and water together is ineffective.’’
The microbiologist says people should be cautious of mould and fine particle growth in skincare products. ‘‘You can’t always see what’s happening on a microscopic level, some things don’t have odours or visibility. Bacteria, fungi moulds and virus, all microbes, can grow. It’s why products need good anti-agents, which act as a preservative system.’’
To maintain and preserve the lifespan of a product, find a cool and consistent environment temperature (this can be the refrigerator), keep out of direct sunlight, don’t get water into products, use an apparatus to extract from jars, and opt for packaging that is darkly tinted and airless, so that your product isn’t left susceptible to microbes.
Makeup
All makeup should have the POA symbol, but Mecca brand expert Jennifer Horsley says there are certain things you can do to ensure each product remains intact for the duration of its shelflife. Also, be sure to keep products in their original packaging, and patch test for irritation and discontinue if you are unsure.
■ Mascara: Replace every three months, especially if you are an everyday user.
■ Cream products, including foundations and concealer: It depends on your decanting method. For powder foundations, spray alcohol on the powder pigment every so often to kill bacteria.
■ Eyeliner: Sharpen before each use, then sanitise the tip with an alcohol spray, and wipe away excess to ensure pigment buildup is gone before use.
■ Lipstick: Store in a cool, dry area to prevent oils from melting and disturbing the formula’s longevity. Generally, you should replace your lipstick after 12 months
In with the new (resolutions)
Vivian says the new year is a good time to consider skin resolutions and concerns, and recommends turning to a professional as the first port of call.
‘‘When you put your skin in the hands of a professional you trust, you’ll find you end up buying and using less product. Remember skincare needs time and patience, and quite often a holistic approach, rather than stocking and moving to a different product to ‘fix the problem’ after two weeks.’’
Vinson recommends adding zinc oxide sunscreen to your routine, and also suggests pre and probiotic products to bring balance back to the microbiome – which may have been thrown out by masks and pandemic stress – as well as her ‘‘ABC’’ approach to skincare.
‘‘Vitamin A in the form of retinol like a hydroxypinacolone retinoate, vitamin B3 niacinamide, and vitamin C in the form of ascorbic acid powder,’’ she says.
Vivian suggests vitamin B3 niacinamide as an ‘‘all-rounder ingredient for everyone, to energise and brighten the skin, stimulate, hydrate, and to regulate oil and redness’’, and adds the need for a ‘‘less is more’’ approach in 2021 for those who tend to fall into the habit of using far too many products.
As for makeup hygiene, Mecca’s Horsley recommends adding isopropyl alcohol to sanitise all cosmetic products and coconut oil as an natural antibacterial agent.
She also suggests the use of vitamin C to fight free radical damage and hydration mists containing antioxidants and hyaluronic acid.