Auckland’s west is simply the best
There is much more to our biggest city than the central city and SkyCity or the delights of Waiheke Island, there is also plenty to entertain in Outrageous Fortune territory, writes Pamela Wade.
Bush, beaches, art, food, and wine – what’s not to like? Even better, for Aucklanders, this triple harbour loop is pretty much in the backyard, although it quickly feels as if you are somewhere much further away. Head west out of the city, skirting around the inner edges of Waitematā Harbour. Take a detour right, towards Hobsonville Point, for a glimpse into what could well be the future: a planned settlement of harmonious housing, from heritage villas to apartment blocks.
These developments have been designed for a range of incomes, and it feels inclusive and inspired, and very different from the suburbs most of us are used to.
The Catalina Cafe is a good place to stop for coffee, though it is worth going down to the pleasant waterfront where the Fabric Cafe Bistro is inviting, and the Catalina Farmers’ Market (open Friday to Sunday) is full of tempting goodies. You could go for a stroll nearby on the walkway around Bomb Point, which is much more peaceful than it sounds, and even has fairy houses.
Now you have worked up an appetite, drive past Whenuapai to Riverhead where, on the bank above one of the furthest reaches of the Waitematā , you will find the eponymous Riverhead, a gastropub that’s been welcoming guests for about 160 years. It has character, lovely views down to the jetty and over the water, a deck shaded by century-old oak trees and, most importantly, a tempting menu of excellent food as well as a good range of craft beers and wines.
This is wine country, and you will already have passed some famous vineyards, plus Hallertau Brewery. One that is more tucked away, but definitely worth seeking out, is Westbrook Winery. A drive through Riverhead Forest brings you to an avenue through neatly netted vines, and the cellar door itself, with country views across ponds and the vineyard.
There is good food on offer there too and, of course, a wide range of proudly handmade wines to taste – the Crackling Rose is a star. Give in to the temptation to settle in for a while with a tasting platter and a wine flight, and watch the skirmishes between pū keko and paradise ducks as the afternoon winds down.
Finish the day at Helensville, where you can browse the art galleries and pop in to see why the Ginger Crunch Cafe has so many fans. There is a good range of accommodation in the vicinity, from cottages to lodges.
You could also finish the day, or begin the next one, at nearby Parakai Springs. These geothermally heated pools have been a family favourite for generations, and the simple pleasures of steamy hot mineral water are always hard to resist. Hurtle down the slides, or wallow peacefully in the adults-only rock pool.
Alternatively, you could start the next day by scaring yourself silly, flinging yourself out of an airplane courtesy of Skydive Auckland.
The tandem skydives are the highest in the country, from 20,000 feet (6000 metres), and offer views of both sides of the North Island beneath you.
If that’s just a bit too high, you could tackle one of the Tree Adventures in Woodhill Forest. These start at just a couple of metres off the ground, and go up to an exciting 14 metres: high wires, suspended obstacle courses, tunnels, swings, and ziplines.
Get a closer look at that spectacular coast with a long, winding drive out to Muriwai, Te Hē nga/ Bethells Beach, or Piha. Each have their own delights, but all offer striking black sand beaches swept by long breakers rolling in from the Tasman, challenging surfers and entertaining spectators.
Back behind the dunes, or along the cliff tops, there are walking tracks to follow with lagoons and waterfalls, as well as a gannet colony to discover.
You are in the Waitā kere Ranges Regional Park now, and though many of the tracks through the forest are closed because of kauri die-back, there are some good ones open.
Drive through Huia to the Ō manawanui Track to Whatipu Beach for bush, impressive new flights of steps, and great views over Manukau, the last of your triple harbours. You might think you have really got away from it all when you reach this remote and lovely beach, but a century ago, locals used to hold dances in lamp-lit Te Ana Ru cave, on a specially built wooden floor.
When it’s time to leave, don’t rush back to the city. Get an arty fix at Colin McCahon House to see how primitively he and his family lived, tucked into the bush, his daughters’ bedroom downstairs open to passing possums.
For more art, and much more, stop in Titirangi to have a browse through the striking Te Uru Waitā kere Contemporary Gallery, with its changing exhibitions of paintings, sculpture, pottery and more.
Lopdell House gallery is next door, just past an excellent eatery, and the town has coffee shops in abundance.
For a final fix of nature, visit West Lynn Garden, 21⁄2 hectares of plants nurtured by volunteer enthusiasts. Wander the paths and neatly mown lawns to admire the trees and flowers and, from December to April, the fluttering glory of its butterfly house, full of monarch butterflies and caterpillars. At $3 each to enter, it’s a gift in every sense, and a charming way to finish your weekend out west, though it is a certainty that you will already be planning your return.