NICOLA GALLOWAY
Plan ahead to roast this sweet mid-winter vege and enjoy the caramelisation.
Pumpkin and squash truly come into their own in mid-winter. lthough harvested in late autumn they need time to cure (age) in a dry place for at least a month, ideally two. Nature has packaged them perfectly to last the winter months, the flesh sweetening and improving in flavour as they age – a little like a good cheese or wine. f course they won’t last as long but I do feel their sweet spot (quite literally) is from uly through ugust.
ven with curing, not all pumpkin and squash are created the same with some less sweet and flavoursome as others. Dry heat cooking, such as oven roasting, is my preferred cooking mode to evaporate moisture and intensify flavour. For the recipes that follow choose a dense-fleshed pumpkin such as grey-skinned crown pumpkin or dark green-skinned buttercup squash. If purchasing pre-cut make sure the inside is a deep orange colour from the skin to the seeds. I was lucky to find a large ʤueensland blue pumpkin at a produce market a few months back that I have been storing for this moment.
Pumpkin & chickpea pilaf
This one pan dish can be a meal on its own or served as a side to slow-cooked lamb. It is gently spiced with warming flavours while the fresh herbs and seasoned yoghurt to serve bring a freshness to complete the dish. If preferred, and to save turning on the oven, the pumpkin and chickpeas (combined with the flavourings in the recipe) can be added along with the rice, adding ½ cup extra stock (using 2½ cups total stock). Noting that this option won’t be quite as sweet and flavoursome without the caramelising heat of the oven.
PREP TIME 2 minutes // COOK TIME minutes SERVES as a side or as a main dish
About 600g crown pumpkin or buttercup squash
2 tbsp olive oil, divided
Pinch each ground cumin, coriander and smoked paprika About ½ tsp salt, divided
400g can chickpeas (or 1½ cups cooked), drained
1 onion (about 150g), diced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp turmeric
Pinch of chilli flakes
½ cinnamon stick or ½ tsp ground cinnamon
1 cup (200g) white basmati rice (can also use quinoa) 2 cups (500ml) hot vegetable or chicken stock
2 tbsp toasted sliced almonds
Small handful chopped fresh coriander
½ cup (120ml) natural yoghurt seasoned with salt to serve
1. Preheat the oven to 190ºC (fan 170ºC).
2. First prepare the pumpkin for roasting. Remove the skin from the pumpkin and chop into 2cm pieces. Put on a roasting tray, drizzle with 1 tbsp olive oil, add the spices and a generous pinch of salt.
3. Toss to combine then arrange in a single layer on the tray. Put in the oven and roast for 15 minutes. After this time add the drained chickpeas, mixing to combine then return to the oven for a further 10 minutes until the pumpkin is tender.
4. While the pumpkin is cooking, heat a heavy-based frying pan over a moderate heat. Add the remaining 1 tbsp of olive oil along with the onion and fry until golden, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic, spices and rice and muddle over the heat for 1-2 minutes until wonderfully fragrant.
5. Add the hot stock and a good pinch of salt (you may not need this if using seasoned stock). Cover with a lid and cook over a low heat for about 15 minute until the liquid has been absorbed.
6. Fluff the rice then gently fold through the roasted pumpkin and chickpeas. Scatter with sliced almonds and chopped coriander. Serve with seasoned yoghurt on the side.
As mentioned left, roasted pumpkin delivers on flavour. Yes, it is an extra step, and one I aim to plan ahead by roasting the pumpkin pieces while I have the oven on for dinner the night before or when baking bread. The resulting sweetening and caramelising of the pumpkin really is worth the effort. The other benefit of roasting the pumpkin is that the skin comes off easily once cooked, with the rest of the soup coming together in no time. The chickpea topping is the cherry on top here, bringing extra boldness in flavour and texture to the soup.
Garam masala is an Indian spice blend, it is more complex than curry powder with sweet flavoured spices to complement the pumpkin. Mild curry powder can be substituted if that is all you have on hand.
PREP TIME 25 minutes // COOK TIME 50 minutes // SERVES
About 1kg pumpkin or squash (see options in intro)
2 tbsp olive oil
1½ tsp garam masala (or 1 tsp mild curry powder and ½ tsp mixed spice)
½ tsp salt
About 3 cups (750ml) vegetable or chicken stock Cracked pepper
About 80g feta, crumbled
Sizzled chickpeas
2 tbsp olive oil
½ red onion, diced
400g can chickpeas (or 1½ cups cooked), drained Pinch of salt
Pinch of chilli flakes
½ tsp garam masala or mild curry powder
1. Chop the pumpkin into similar sized wedges or chunks, roughly 7-8cm wide. Place on a roasting tray and drizzle generously with olive oil. Add the garam masala and salt and toss to combine, using your fingers to evenly coat with the oil and spice. A thin coating of oil results in more caramelising, which equals flavour. Roast for 30-40 minutes until the pumpkin is tender throughout when pierced with a knife. 2. Cool enough to handle, then use a small knife to remove the skin, placing the pumpkin flesh into a saucepan. Add the stock to the pan and heat gently. Once warm, remove from the heat and blend with a stick blender until smooth, adding extra stock if needed to reach the consistency you like. Gently heat the soup while preparing the chickpeas. 3. Heat a frying pan over a moderate to high heat. Add the oil and red onion and cook until the onions are sticky and caramelised, about 8-10 minutes. Add the chickpeas, salt and spices and continue to cook, tossing regularly until the chickpeas are golden and “sizzled”. Tip into a bowl. 4. Check the flavour of the soup adding extra salt and cracked pepper as needed. Ladle into bowls and top each with 2-3 tbsp sizzled chickpeas. Scatter with crumbled feta and a drizzle of olive oil, and serve.
Nicola Galloway is an award-winning food writer, cookbook author and culinary tutor. homegrown-kitchen.co.nz