Bhutan’s trekking routes uncrowded and welcoming

When a country only has one main highway and even that is often used regularly for moving yaks from pasture to pasture, you know it’s going to be a great place for walking.

Bhutan, at the eastern end of the Himalayas, is definitely a great destination if you like to explore on foot.

Although tourism numbers have increased markedly since it first opened up to visitors in 1974, it’s approach of High Value, Low Impact tourism has meant Bhutan has never been swamped with travellers. Only a few thousand people go trekking in Bhutan each year for example.

This means that even Bhutan’s trek- king routes are uncrowded and villagers en route are still welcoming and interested in passers-by.

I made my first visit to Bhutan in the late 1990s and have returned more than 10 times so have watched with fascination as this country has tackled its rapid transition from a largely rural, almost feudal society to a modern 21st century nation.

One of its key policies is that Bhutan will remain 60 per cent forested in perpetuity. Currently it stands at 72 per cent with forests rich in rhododendrons, magnolia, maples and, at higher altitudes, coniferous forest draped in lichen.

Bhutan is a Buddhist kingdom so there is no hunting allowed which means wildlife flourishes. Keen birdwatchers spot numerous species close to the road and monkeys including grey and golden langurs are not usually hard to fine either.

This is not a country for people who prefer their walking on the flat. Bhutan is extremely mountainous - the high Himalayas in the north form a natural barrier between it and Tibet and south

of these most Bhutanese live in valleys surrounded by high ridges and crossed by tumultuous rivers. Terracing extends farmland up steep slopes.

Bhutanese enjoy telling visitors that, because of the mountainous terrain, there are only a very few stretches of straight road, and one of these is the access road to the international airport at Paro.

If you are looking for close-up views of the highest of Himalayan peaks, Bhutan is not for you but if walking in remote and beautiful valleys and hills appeals, and most importantly getting feel for a very special culture is a prior- Opposite page above: The spectacular Punakha dzong. Below left: Archery is Bhutan’s national sport and during official competitions competitors must where traditional dress, the “go”. Below right: Bhutanese children have not been spoiled by mass tourism and still enjoy waving to travellers. Above left: Young Bhutanese monastery surveying visitors from their dormitory windows.. Above right: A typical Bhutanese village complete with memorial chorten (centre) and prayer wall (at right). Below right: Native rhododendrons thrive in Bhutan and, thanks to the large number of species, have a flowering season that lasts for several months. ity, then Bhutan is ideal.

While many aspects of Bhutanese culture are similar to those in Nepal and Tibet, there are some unique aspects too. Along with Bhutan’s policy of preserving its forests, there are also edicts decreeing school children and Government employees must wear Bhutan’s distinct national dress during school and working hours.

All buildings have to be built in traditional style and are decorated with depictions of mythical beasts and Buddhist symbols.

The most spectacular buildings in Bhutan are the dzongs. A dzong is an immense fortified construction that houses not only a monastery but also the local administrative offices. It’s not uncommon to hear clashing symbols and booming drums from one part of the dzong while nearby an administrator works on a computer.

Punakha dzong lies at the confluence of two rivers and is reached by a spectacular cantilevered bridge. Jacaranda trees line the river bank which is a favourite spot for red-robed monks to stroll during their brief spells of recreation.

Jill Worrall Tours is offering a 19-day (approx) trekking and cultural tour to Bhutan in March-April 2018. It will be led by her son, Jonathan Meadowcroft, a highly experienced adventure tourism guide and paramedic who has previously travelled to Bhutan with Jill.