Walking New Zealand

Carnarvon National Park walks were magical

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A dear little bloke entertaine­d us for several minutes as he ducked and dived feeding right in front of us. We’d have missed him for sure. It’s the bubbles spiralling upwards that you need to look out for.

Other livestock spotted yes, an echidna all spiked and bustling like a gigantic hedgehog, a kangaroo family or were they wallabies? Mum, a joey jumped out of her pouch, and dad grazing close by and then, on our way out a fleet of emus. Funny birds, very flappy. No snakes!. Maybe consumed by that fire?

The Australian bush is full of noisy birds and Simon pointed out many unknown to us. A tiny fairy bird that carried burning coals on its back and still has the red burning markings on its back. (old Aboriginal story).

Very, very noisy cockatoos and orioles overhead, sometimes throwing pieces of seed coverings down on us.

A quinine tree (not the same as in tonic) that indigenous women used as a very effective contracept­ive. If you ate too many seeds you became totally infertile. Hmmmm. Can think of some uses!

Fascinatin­g stories about red spider ants. The big fat ones are carrying back nectar found on certain gum trees. No problem getting a meal in that neck of the woods. Look out for ants on the track and don’t step on them. Also very obscure tiny flowers along the way that we would have missed.

Finally we arrived at the Moss Gardens. An amazing small canyon with steep, steep sides, the lower walls covered in lush green moss and absolutely dripping with water.

The water from high above slowly steeps through the porous rock until finally meeting an impervious layer and being forced to the surface where the moss grows in magnificen­t abundance.

Quite a sight when you think the gorge is surrounded by such dry conditions. Of course there has to be a pretty waterfall and lots of ferns.

Convenient­ly they had built a viewing area with benches. Such an opportune place to have lunch.

The path was well formed but with lots of steps. It was reasonable walking. We were glad of our Lekki sticks and very pleased to see the cars at the end of our day.

The very boring bit was having to

drive all the way back to Injune and our motel a total of 180kms. How enjoyable it would have to just toddle back to the Carnarvon Lodge.

The next morning at the Gorge was wonderful. Almost magical. A kilometre walk in the shade into a narrow cutting in the high cliff walls.

A little stream and lots of ferns and wild pea in flower. All around the burnt trunks of the gums and intriging, the cycads. Burnt to a cinder in their elongated pineapple shaped trunks, then the singed and burnt fronds of the lower foliage with, yes new life bursting green out the top. Amazing.

The further in we explore off the track by now, the narrower the cleft became. You could just see the sky through a narrow slit.

It became quite chilly and quite precarious to navigate some rather large boulders. It was narrow enough to almost touch side to side but clean and dry. The water looked a bit murky and you certainly wouldn’t get near on a showery day. Posssiblit­y of flash floods!

The going got more difficult for our tremulous, by this stage, legs so we turned back. Our more limber friends only managed 100m more so we didn’t feel too pathetic. Quite, quite magical.

Lunch was at convenient picnic tables by the Rock Pools where we were entertaine­d by turtles, sunning and swimming. To say nothing of those raucous birds. I take that back we have heard some very tuneful and melodic little fellows.

If we had been able to stay in the Lodge we would have walked on a third day as there was still heaps to see. An amphitheat­re, a cave of ancient Aboriginal rock paintings, the Cathedral and a steep climb up to a Bluff with views forever. But enough is enough and we had loved walking in this enchanting gorge.

“Hasten slowly in this wild place. Breathe deeply and enjoy the scents of the bush.”

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 ??  ?? Above left: Wild grass in flower. Above right: Three kangaroos stop from grazing.
Below: Moss covered rocks.
Above left: Wild grass in flower. Above right: Three kangaroos stop from grazing. Below: Moss covered rocks.
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