Tongariro National Park short walks to suit all fitness types
October is a lovely month for walking in Tongariro National Park – the weather can be very unpredictable and changeable, but when it’s good, the scenery is amazing.
We are so lucky to have this place to explore. In 1887 it was offered to the crown to protect, and preserve for future generations by Horonuku Te Heuheu Tukino of Ngati Tuwharetoa ; and in 1894, became the first National Park.
We were fortunate to have perfect walking weather for two days.
The crossing though was closed due to high winds, so we chose to walk a series of short walks at a lower altitude. On the first day we drove up the Bruce Road from Whakapapa Village, stopping at the car park at Scoria Flat – about 5 kms up.
From here we took the Whakapapaiti Track over a ridge, then followed a zigzag path down over lava fields into Whakapapaiti Val
ley. It’s a beautiful open walk, with awesome views of both Ngaruahoe and Ruapehu topped with snow.
Looking down the valley, we saw Whakapapaiti waterfall, about 15m high, and running well because of heavy rain the previous night. Probably because not so many people are walking the track due to Covid-19 restrictions, the path was remarkably dry even after heavy rain.
We walked down through stunted beech trees to finally reach the hut in about one hour 25 minutes, and sat down just enjoying being in the mountains.
Walking the loop back to Whakapapa, the trail continues about 15 minutes to a river crossing.
A couple returned as we were leaving, saying the river was running a bit too high and fast to confidently cross. So on to plan B. We re-traced our steps back to the carpark, and it was a totally different walk on the return journey. Stunning views of the mountain tops all the way.
We drove a short distance down the Bruce Road, and parked at a signpost to Silica Rapids. This trail was 40 minutes of well maintained undulating track with lots of steps both up and down. The rapids were quite spectacular with rocks and terraces coated in creamy white deposits.
When the stream emerges from lava fields, the water is rich in aluminium and minerals, and as it gathers speed at the rapids, the alumina
Tongariro National Park short walks to suit all fitness types
silicates are deposited.
This trail also continues on to Whakapapa village, through beech forest but it was a lovely sunny day and we chose to retrace our footsteps out in the open, enjoying mountain scenery.
Our next walk was the Ridge Track, a half hour wander to a high point at Whakapapa Village. It was gradual and easy, offering panoramic views of Mt Ngaruahoe and the surrounding countryside, as far as the Kaimanawas and Kawekas.
There was a dusting of snow on the tops, adding to the magic. As a finale we walked the 15 minute
loop track, through beech and mountain toatoa into Tawhai Falls, situated off S.H.48, 4 kms from National Park Visitor Centre. It’s a truly beautiful little spot, with the falls tumbling over an ancient lava flow into a lovely swimming hole. It was also a filming location for Lord of the Rings and well worth the stop.
It was such an interesting day, covering short walks that we usually by-pass to tackle the longer ones. This time we avoided longer walks, because snow was predicted. It happened that night, and we woke the next morning to fiercely cold southerly winds, a moody grey/white sky and fresh snow on the tops, so we planned accordingly.
Leaving cars at Ohakune, we drove to Horopito, and walked the sheltered Old Coach Road, back to the cars The Old Coach Rd was built in the early 1900’s to ferry passengers by horse drawn carriage, between two rail heads, on the unfinished North Island main trunk line.
It is now an incredibly beautiful walk - blue skies above, snow on the tops, the sun on our backs and shelter from the wind. We wandered past huge rimu, matai and kahikatea
, with mountain cabbage trees dotted amongst them. Soon, we reached old concrete abutments, the remains of the viaduct over Haeremaere Stream.
We continued on past the new Taonui rail bridge and the historic Taonui Viaduct, another relic from the past. This viaduct, designed by Peter Seton Hay, was built in 1908 and used until 1987. Known as the steel viaduct, it was constructed with steel plates ,beams, girders and trusses, and held together with bolts and rivets. It was quite spectacular!
Soon after, we reached the top of the ridge. Here, there were beautiful views over farmland and hills, through rimu laced with native
clematis. An enormous rata was slowly strangling one of the rimu. Our next stop was at Hapuawhenua Viaduct, the longest viaduct on the main trunk line. When it was built in 1906, no scaffolding was used, and there were no serious injuries. – quite a remarkable feat.
From here we had a view of the limestone cliffs on Raetihi Hill, evidence that this area was once under water. We stopped here to soak up the atmosphere read the information boards and have a picnic.
The next point of interest was Hapuawhenua Tunnel. Constructed in 1907, it was used for 80 years, until the decision was made to electrify and straighten the main line. The tunnel was in the wrong place, didn’t have enough overhead clearance for the new trains.
From here to Ohakune there are several information boards making interesting reading of the history of this area. Reaching our cars before 2pm we had time to enjoy coffee and donuts at Ohakune, before heading home.
All the way, the scenery was stunning. After snow falling on the tops most of the day, Ruapehu, Ngaruahoe, Tongariro, the Kaimanawas and the Kawekas were glowing white. We had a wonderful two days and plan to return at a later date.