Big Apple in Ellerslie
New deli brightens up suburban shopping strip
SET UP & SITE
Soon after he’d been diagnosed with terminal cancer, rock musician Warren Zevon advised people to “enjoy every sandwich”. That philosophy is something East Auckland newcomer Pastrami & Rye embraces. Auckland boasts a few great sandwich spots — Fed Deli is one (try the turkeyon-rye), Britomart’s The Store can be good. Add to that list Pastrami & Rye’s Cuban — ham, cheese, pork, kosher pickle and mustard ($12) — served between two thick slices of toasted bread. The taste of the meat comes through, there’s not too much cheese; and the pickles and mustard bring a nice hit of sourness and heat. This small but busy Americanstyle deli smartens up the rather drab set of shops on Ellerslie’s Main Highway. The staff wear uniforms and cloth caps like in a real New York deli, the sort of place owner Dave Donoghue worked before returning home and setting up his own little bit of the Big Apple in Ellerslie. Jars of chillis and pickles — Dave’s again — line the walls; there are three seats by the window and a few down the end of the counter, but this is the sort of place you’d probably order “to go”.
SUSTENANCE & SWILL
Okay, there are other things than sandwiches here — salads, smoothies, huge sausage rolls, pies (near the end of the week, try the lamb shank) — and rotisserie chickens (you may have to pre-order these). All meat is cured and smoked by Dave in-house; the bread and bakery goods from Dominion Rd’s La Voie Francaise. My brunch date had the Reuben — pastrami, sauerkraut and cheese ($13) — served with a side of coleslaw (there’s a choice of coleslaw or potato chips). She attempted to describe this quite a few times while eating, but the sandwich took priority. Finally, after finishing and wiping her mouth with a serviette, she proclaimed simply: “Oh my God, that was good.”
SERVICE & OTHER STUFF
Service is quick, chatty and welcoming. There’s a few sandwiches on display in the cabinet, but really you’re much better off ordering fresh. They know how to make coffee too (Supreme beans) — but no decaf. Follow their Facebook page for specials as they have meals to go on certain days — like slow-braised beef with gremolata salad and smokey mash. There’s nothing fancy going on here, just good ingredients put together by people who care about the end result. And life is too short for a bad sandwich.