Light and playful
Concrete and flowers mix for a charming cafe backdrop
SET UP & SITE
At Cityworks Depot, there are bagels, craft beer, coffee, sushi, a food truck. Plus a place you can get your eyelashes done and a fantastic jewellery shop. Amid the buzz is this little oasis, with covered outside tables where you could sit all day in the winter sun. Inside there are brightly coloured cushions and plants all over the place. The light fittings are super-pretty, innovative and playful. Which sums up the essence of the place. It’s a light, warm and spacious concrete garden. Industrial-flora fusion.
SUSTENANCE & SWILL
First I order a coffee (soy flat white, $5, their own blend made by Three Beans, in the same complex), and my friend orders a peppermint tea ($4). I will corrupt her later on the grounds that a Bloody Mary is the only true measure of a brunch cafe. It’s 10.30am on a Friday and I’ve been holding back all morning just for this, because there is one thing I’ve already scoped — the kahawai cake, with braised cabbage, anchovy gremolata and a soft-boiled egg ($19). Nikki orders poached eggs, tomato, rosti and relish on the side ($18). Then, because we can’t help ourselves, we order a coconut panna cotta as a dessert. And then, because we can’t help ourselves and also because we’re enjoying ourselves so much, we do order two Bloody Marys. My dish is exciting, unusual and superbly presented. I’d order it again in a heartbeat. Nikki says her’s is a bit ho-hum and, while helped by the sides, a bit disappointing for $18. My coffee lacks oomph but the Bloody Mary is spicy, and perfectly balanced, with fresh celery (many establishments miss this out, so it rates a mention). The panna cotta arrives, small white and wobbly on a stunning pottery plate, with roasted fruit, oat and coconut crumble, and mango. There are also straightforward options on the menu, like eggs on toast ($11). Or toast and preserves ($8).
SERVICE & OTHER STUFF
The waitstaff are effortlessly polished and helpful. It was a quiet-ish Friday morning when we were there, but there was a sense of the calm before the storm as they transitioned to a bar, and the office workers file in. At brunch time, it’s a little haven and I’d come back any day. Definitely to try the scotch egg (black pudding, chilli chutney, avocado, spinach and manchego — my favourite cheese). Treat yourself to a bunch of fresh-cut flowers on your way out.