It’s all in the name

New kids on the block know what they’re about

SET UP & SITE:

We hoof it in the rain to the mod outfit that is Brunch on the ground level of the AA building. It’s a strange area, not exactly buzzing with the pulse of the city, but inside there is a decent crowd. My companion has her dog, Mambo, who is a little anxious about being city- side and is soon made comfortable outside with a bowl of water. The waiter says, did we know that Kmart have the best dog coats ever? The interior is tasteful corporate. My companion says it looks like a franchise fitout. She’s right. But it’s comfortable, big and spacious, has tables outside for when it’s not raining, and is perfect for a discreet business meeting or a work catch- up.

SUSTENANCE & SWILL:

I’m umming and ahhing — the benedict, or the scramble? I choose mushroom toast ($ 16.50). ‘ Shrooms cooked in a balsamic cream, topped served with a poached egg and pecorino on a slice of mixed grain or ciabatta. Your choice. Except the question is never asked — and to be honest, even though I would’ve asked for ciabatta, it’s not a exactly a game- changer. I don’t even notice, the ‘ shrooms are so good. The mixed grain is just fine. The egg is perfectly cooked and the pecorino ... sigh. My favourite cheese ( after comte,) Michelle knows exactly what she wants – the green smash ($ 16) — which is the most glorious, violently green mash of edamame and broad beans ( with smoked salmon and popping capers on a hunk of ciabatta ( or mixed grain — your choice). She, conversely, would’ve chosen the mixed grain but got ciabatta. The dish is so pretty, with pickled radish and those crispy capers providing a great cut- through with the richness of the salmon, she says. How do you get popping capers? You fr y them, in a little oil, says a waiter. The only gripe with the smash is that the edamame is a bit on the chilled side. The coffee is a perfect, no- nonsense hit and while there’s no price list, they work out to be a fairly bog- standard, central city $ 4.50 each.

SERVICE & OTHER STUFF:

There’s no drinks list at all, but there’s Allpress beans, and we can see a lineup of juices in glass bottles on top of a glass food cabinet full of all the usual suspects — Turkish pide with various fillings and chocolate caramel slice. As soon as we are seated, we are given water. I order a soy piccolo and Michelle has a trim flat white. The service is fantastic, efficient and friendly and the food comes fast. They have — at the time we visit — been open a week and they are a slick operation. So Brunch is brunch, like it says, with a complimentary side of canine winter fashion advice. Sarah Daniell