ANNABEL LANGBEIN
The call of the wild
The impetus behind foraging is part epicurean (think stuffed nasturtium flowers, nettle risotto and watercress or dandelion pesto) and part environmental. There’s something incredibly pleasing about the idea of getting something for nothing, especially when it tastes good, is good for your health, doesn’t involve an industrial food chain and (provided you aren’t trespassing) is entirely legal.
Weeds tend to be incredibly hardy – that’s why they can survive everywhere — and the characteristics that make them prolific are also why they tend to be nutrient-dense and flavourful. Many require very little water, which is why you can often find edible delicacies growing in the cracks of walls and pavements.
When it comes to any kind of foraging expedition it’s key to make sure you aren’t foraging from polluted places or those that could have been sprayed with herbicide and that you can 100 per cent identify what you’re picking. As a mushroom expert said to me not so long ago: “All mushrooms are edible, it’s just that some you will only eat once.”
In my own garden I think twice when I pick chervil and double-check that I have the right plant, as its lookalike cousin — the highly poisonous hemlock — pops up everywhere to confuse me.
On the other hand, I know I can safely enjoy eating stinging nettles. You might think that, with such a ferocious sting, nettles would be poisonous but, with a little cooking, this quick-growing prickly plant delivers a flavourful, tender tonic of vitamins and minerals. In spring and autumn, I don a pair of rubber gloves to collect nettles while the leaves are young and tender (like watercress, they get bitter in mid-summer). Cooked nettles have a sweet, earthy taste and I use them as a substitute for spinach in risotto, pasta and soup. Put them in a sieve and pour boiling water over them to fully wilt them, or blanch them and then squeeze out all the liquid before pureeing into pesto, mayonnaise and other sauces. You can do the same with young leaves of fat hen (chenopodium album), dandelion (taraxacum), oxalis/wood sorrel (oxalis stricta) and puha/milk thistle (sonchus oleraceus).
Learning to identify safe edible weeds will happen quickly with practice. It’s a bit like telling iceberg lettuce from cos — you can do it without thinking. And once you have learned to identify them, you’ll start to see your favourite weeds everywhere.
SPRING WATERCRESS SALAD WITH CASHEW MUSTARD DRESSING
Ready in 10 mins Serves 8 10 handfuls watercress, stems removed Flesh of 3 oranges, cut into segments, pith removed 2 large, just-ripe avocados, cut into chunks Cashew mustard dressing 3 Tbsp almond or cashew butter 1 tsp seed mustard 2 tsp lemon juice ½ tsp honey A pinch of salt 3-4 Tbsp water, to thin To make cashew mustard dressing, mix together all ingredients, adding enough water to form a smooth, creamy sauce. To make the salad, place watercress, orange segments and avocado chunks in a large bowl. Squeeze the juices from the orange shells over the salad and toss gently to combine. Drizzle with dressing and toss gently. Divide between 8 serving plates and serve immediately.
Annabel says: In summer, watercress goes to seed and becomes coarse and very, very hot, so spring and autumn, when it flushes verdantly green and tender, are the best times to use it. If you can’t get watercress you can use any tender fresh salad greens for this salad.
WILD HERB LABNEH
Ready in 15 mins + draining Makes about 1½ cups 2 cups natural Greek-style yoghurt 1 packed cup soft wild herbs, such as nettles, watercress, fat hen or dandelion tips, stems removed (use rubber gloves to pick nettles) 12 large mint leaves 1 fat clove garlic, crushed ½ tsp finely chopped fennel seeds ½ tsp salt A pinch of white pepper Crackers or vegetable crudites, to serve Line a large sieve with a paper towel or clean Jiffy cloth and place over a bowl. Pour yoghurt into lined sieve and place in fridge overnight to drain. Discard liquid (or use for baking as with buttermilk). Place wild herbs and mint in a large bowl and cover with boiling water, pressing the leaves into the water to ensure they are fully immersed (this removes the sting from the nettles). Leave to cool for 5-10 minutes then drain and squeeze with your hands to remove all excess moisture. Place in a food processor with garlic, fennel seeds, salt and pepper and puree until smooth. Add drained, thickened yoghurt and whizz to combine. Transfer to a serving bowl and chill until ready to serve. It will keep for 2-3 days in a covered container in the fridge.
Annabel says: This pretty, pale green dip is terrific with crackers or vegetable bites or used in cucumber sandwiches in place of butter.
WARM CHICKEN LIVER SALAD WITH HAZELNUTS
Ready in 20 mins Serves 4 as a starter or 2 as a main 300-350g free-range chicken livers Salt and ground black pepper, to taste 2 Tbsp neutral oil 4 rashers streaky bacon, cut into 2cm pieces 2 tsp butter 3 handfuls watercress, baby spinach or rocket leaves, stems removed Flesh of 2 oranges, cut into segments, pith removed 2 Tbsp toasted hazelnuts, skins rubbed off and nuts coarsely chopped 1 Tbsp lemon juice A drizzle of pomegranate molasses Devein and trim the chicken livers, cutting any large pieces in half. Season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan and fry bacon pieces until they start to crisp. Lift out of pan and set aside to cool. Add butter to same pan and, when it turns nut-brown, add the seasoned chicken livers. Cook over high heat, turning once, until browned but still lightly pink in the centre (about 2 minutes on one side and 1 minute on the other). Lift out of pan and set aside with the bacon. Arrange spinach, rocket or watercress on a serving platter with oranges and chopped hazelnuts. Add warm bacon and chicken livers and toss gently. Drizzle with lemon juice and pomegranate molasses, season to taste with salt and pepper and serve immediately.
Annabel says: To toast and skin the hazelnuts for this recipe, place them on a baking tray and bake at 180C for 10 minutes. Allow them to cool, then place them in a clean tea towel and rub to loosen the skins. Toasted nuts will keep in a sealed jar for weeks and are a yummy snack as well as being useful additions to muesli, muffins or cakes.