Weekend Herald - Canvas

Ambler Cafe & Bistro

A kid-friendly haven in Pt Chevalier

- Monique Barden

SET UP & SITE

I’d been walking past Ambler Cafe & Bistro in a voyeuristi­c kind of way for a while now. I thought I must be the only local who hadn’t been, so on a sweltering summer’s day in the school holidays, the type of day when it’s almost as hot inside as out, we ambled there for a family brunch. It’s on Pt Chevalier Rd, with plenty of street parking. I’ve seen numerous incarnatio­ns of this building over the past decade — from an organic foodstore to a women’s clothing outlet — but this seems a perfect fit. The interior is sleek, minimalist and sympatheti­c to the Art Deco architectu­re. There are elegant wooden chairs and at night, frosted glass pendants give the warm and inviting ambience of the local bistro it is.

SUSTENANCE & SWILL

The menu, like the staff, has a French influence including baked ham and cheese croissants, oeufs a la coque and croque monsieur/madames. From 11am, they have a kids’ brunch menu with mains, which was welcomed by the 8-year-old who would eat battered fish for breakfast, lunch and dinner if he could. The kids ordered fish and chips, $13 and French toast, $9, the latter being a little on the small side for the 11-year-old. Fortunatel­y his brother couldn’t get through the generous serving of fish and chips and was happy to share. They followed up their meals with a scoop of icecream which at $2 was cheaper than the dairy on the way home. Rich had spicy fried eggs with potato croquettes, melted cheese, heirloom tomatoes, merguez sausages and chipotle mayo, $24. There was an abundance of croquettes and tomatoes under those eggs. It was spicy, but a perfect combinatio­n and a meal that will keep you going until dinner. I had the French toast with Valrhona creme anglaise, fruits and crushed hazelnuts, $18. The presentati­on was exceptiona­l, scattered freeze-dried and fresh strawberri­es, hazelnuts and a smattering of almond paste, all

worked beautifull­y. I wasn’t convinced by the creme anglaise, served in a side jug, but it was delicious without, so it didn’t matter. Coffee is Supreme but the $5 latte and $4.50 cappuccino were only just hot enough.

SERVICE & OTHER STUFF

The staff were friendly and attentive and wait times were minimal. Ambler is a relaxed and sophistica­ted all-day eatery that welcomes kids — an enticing option for a neighbourh­ood laden with young families.

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