Whanganui Chronicle

WINE O’CLOCK 6 of the best

A down to earth look at some interestin­g local and internatio­nal releases that have caught Mac Macpherson’s attention or proven themselves worthy of further discussion.

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Lake Hayes Sauvignon Blanc 2020 — Central Otago Available from $14.99

Produced by high-flying winery Amisfield, the Lake Hayes brand offers wine buyers a well priced introducti­on to Central Otago, and that’s certainly what is on offer here. It’s quite a rare thing to see Central Otago wine in this price band these days. The region’s low crop yields and small production volumes mean that wineries typically focus on the higher end of the market to remain economical­ly viable, and of course, wine buyers are still willing to pay a significan­t premium for good Central Otago pinot noir; the variety that dominates production in this part of the world. Vinted from fruit sourced from a stony terrace in the Pisa sub-region, Lake Hayes 2020 is a plush and rounded sauvignon blanc with flavours in the tropical spectrum that you expect from the variety that put New Zealand wine on the global stage. I love the dialed-down acidity it offers and the softer citrus notes that flow through the palate. I get some herbal notes and some mineral touches too, and it’s those added complexiti­es that make this wine well worth seeking out.

Guerrieri Rizzardi Pinot Grigio 2019 — Delle Venezie, Italy Available from $17.99

Pinot grigio is the ubiquitous dry white wine of Italy, and here’s one to try if you’re interested in what pinot gris tastes like from the other side of the world. Delicately flavoured, and usually with less body than New Zealand examples, Italian Pinot Grigio is dry and crisp, with higher acidity and more citrus presence; especially lime. It often has a nutty almond-like character in the midpalate, but can come across as quite thin and insipid to Kiwi drinkers more used to off-dry expression­s from Martinboro­ugh, Marlboroug­h or the plusher examples we see from Waipara. The 2019 Guerrieri Rizzardi comes from Italy’s preferred Delle Venezie district, and shows the regional characters described above. It has some light textural mouthfeel on the palate, and some honey and spice notes enter the conversati­on, before fresh acidity rounds out the finish. I certainly enjoyed it but, like many Italian wines, the higher acidity level means that it needs food to show at its best. Match with grilled fish or simple pasta dishes.

Alchemy Chardonnay 2018 — Hawke’s Bay

Available from $26.99

Fans of traditiona­l, barrel-fermented Hawke’s Bay chardonnay will love this wine. Produced from handpicked fruit from the Omaranui plains near

Dartmoor, this is a bold expression from grower Neal Cave and celebrated winemaker Ant Mckenzie. A whopping 40 per cent new oak component brings texture, wood spice and toasty oak elements into play, but it’s the creamy stonefruit­s and lemon-brulee flavours that dominate the palate. Subtle gun-smoke notes bring a modern touch on the nose, but the modern elements stop there. Malolactic and barrel-fermentati­on techniques have packed the palate with flavour, but have been skilfully handled; remaining controlled and in-check. There is nothing overblown about this wine and the finish is long and fresh with lingering citrus acidity. Highly recommende­d. Enjoy over the coming 3-5 years.

Ata Mara Pinot Noir 2018 — Central Otago Available from $28.99

This 2018 release is vinted from handpicked fruit sourced from the terraces between Lake Dunstan and Mt Pisa, on the Wanaka-cromwell highway. It’s a quite bold, darkly fruited wine, with layers of flavour in the black plum and savoury cherry spectrum. Those darker fruit characters bring weight and presence to the wine, while some herbal / thyme notes add complexity and further interest. I suspect that some whole bunch fermentati­on has been used, as the palate shows some tangy green hints and carries plenty of fine tannin on the finish. Whatever the case, the Ata Mara 2018 is very appealing Central Otago pinot; generous and juicy with good palate flow and an underlying dryness that I really liked.

Badiola Laderas DOC Rioja 2018 — Rioja, Spain Available from $24.99

Vinted from 100 per cent handpicked tempranill­o, Badiola Laderas is a good example of modern Spanish winemaking from a small vineyard in Rioja Alavesa. It’s produced by two masters of wine (including Waiheke Island-based Sam Harrop) and offers dark red fruit flavours with plenty of spice and fine tannin structure on the palate. Tempranill­o is often described as ‘the blue jeans of wine’; it can be dressed up or down and will suit any occasion. It’s user-friendly and Badiola nails the style that has made Rioja a sought after region for wine buyers worldwide. Those bright red fruit are juicy and upfront. The oak component adds some extra spice but stays in the background. The finish is fresh and long with plenty of subtle tannin, and the wine is attractive from start to finish.

Menhir Salento N Zero Negroamaro IGT 2018 — Salento, Italy

Available from $22.99

Vinted 100 per cent from Negroamaro, a small dark skinned grape variety that is widely grown in the southern ‘heel’ of Italy, N Zero is a boldly flavoured Italian red with mouthfuls of spicy dark fruits and a distinct choco-berry flavour. Its soft, rounded palate is both generous and instantly appealing, but on closer inspection you’ll find notes of lavender and thyme adding a touch of magic to this well priced wine. The finish is soft and long, with creamy acidity and fine tannins. With good reason, this silky wine has become a staple on the wine lists of quality eateries throughout New Zealand. Match with traditiona­l Italian fare or any hearty dish. If you like European red wines and buy a bottle of this, I very much doubt it will be your last.

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