Just like the movies
Prized island time in Kaua’i is an effortlessly rewarding add-on, writes Mike Yardley
Ware probably better known as the Fantasy Island waterfalls, given their starring appearance in the opening titles of the hit 80s TV show.
Just north of the main town of Līhu’e, I cast a long gaze over these falls, on a whistlestop exploratory of Kaua’i’s finest features, after enduring winter’s vice-like grip in mainland US.
Thanks to the no-stress brilliance of Hawaiian Airlines’ connectivity, across the Hawaiian Islands and the US, slotting in some prized island time with Kaua’i is an effortlessly rewarding add-on, when flying Hawaiian Airlines to and from Auckland.
Heading west, I jaunted over to the wideangled, scenic grandeur of Waimea Canyon, fondly dubbed the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific”. Mark Twain is credited with coining the phrase, despite not actually visiting Kaua’i. But unlike the Grand Canyon, Waimea is a lush, verdant and colourpopping setting, with contrasting red soil, black volcanic rock, and shades of green lining every stream and waterfall. Nāpali Coast is unquestionably the jewel of Kaua’i, its emerald and copper cliffs imperiously rising above the island’s northwest shore.
In Hawaiian, Nāpali means “the cliffs” and this 27km coastline of razor-sharp cliffs has been created by volcanic eruptions, strong winds, rain and crashing waves.
Its numerous steep valleys were home to thousands of native Hawaiians centuries ago, although today the strikingly serrated coastline is a vast nature-lover’s dream — and beloved backdrop for Jurassic Park.
There are only three ways to see the Nāpali Coast: by air, by sea or on foot via the 18km, one-way Kalalau Trail. Helicopter tours rank highly on bucket-lists, but for a more immersive experience with the storied coastline, opt for a boat tour. Not only do you get up close with those 1200m-tall cliffs that plunge abruptly into the sea, but you can snorkel in the reef, explore hidden sea caves, stunning lava arches and see spinner dolphins and Hawaiian green sea turtles.
On Kaua’i’s sunny southern coast, Hanapēpē will charm your pants off, tenaciously clinging to its settlement roots after being developed by Asian immigrant entrepreneurs, over a century ago.
Moviemakers love this town and its evocative sweep of main street plantationstyle historic buildings, which have served a stack of films, from The Thorn Birds to
Lilo & Stitch.
Peckish? Japanese Grandma’s Cafe´ is a charming stop, specialising in fresh, organic Japanese cuisine with a tranquil seating space in the back garden.
Hanapēpē claims to be home to more fine art galleries than any other place on the island, with boutique galleries to browse, amid the gift shops and eateries. Definitely make tracks to the Aloha Spice Company, a family-owned enterprise that Joanna Carolan established 15 years ago. Aloha Spice Company is right next to the Hanapēpē Swinging Bridge, a delightful diversion wreathed with nostalgia. For more than a century, a suspension bridge has spanned this part of the Hanapē pē River, originally serving taro farmers and residents.
Nearby, Po’ipū Beach Park is home to gorgeous wide, white sandy beaches, blessed by sun-kissed weather and calm water. Po’ipū is a family favourite because it caters to everyone: snorkelling, swimming, surfing or leisurely beach walks. An offshore reef causes the waves to break before they reach the shore, making it a child-friendly beach. While enjoying some languid beach time at Po’ipū , I marvelled over the handful of “Honu,” Hawaiian green sea turtles, that routinely park up on the sands, not just to nest, but to rest. They were blissfully basking in the golden sands of the beach, unperturbed by the crowds of on-lookers who kept a respectful distance.
Where to stay? Just a short drive 10km north from Līhu’e Airport, the Sheraton Kaua’i Coconut Beach Resort enjoys a prime location, brilliantly positioned on the east coast, with blazing sunrises to alight your day. The entire property got a major makeover just before the pandemic started, and you can expect a resort that’s graced with a fresh and modern sense of low-key glamour. Accommodations are spacious and outfitted with grey hardwood floors, sleek white linens and distressed teal rugs; a crashing wave print behind the bed acts as the focal point. Wooden plantation shutters leading out to your lanai is a particularly nice touch.