Travel
Trekking along a string of seaside gems is quite the feat!
This collection of pretty Italian coastal villages, separated by hills but joined by a rail service, has long been a favourite with walkers – and now I’m one of them.
1 How it works
The five towns of the Cinque Terre were originally linked by mule tracks to transport the grapes that grow on their steep, rugged terraces and it’s these ancient tracks overlooking the Mediterranean Sea upon which you trek. Super-athletes do the whole thing in a day, but we did it across three. The basic plan is that you catch the train to one town and walk to another. Our first day we did Riomaggiore to Corniglia, the second Corniglia to Monterosso via Vernazza, and the third day we walked from Levanto, not officially one of the five but where we were staying, back to Monterosso.
2 This way or that?
Words cannot describe how important it is that you find out which direction is the easiest to go in. I had imagined the Cinque Terre would be a pleasant meander, but it has some very steep, long bits that require good shoes and a reasonable level of fitness. You also need to know that going from Monterosso to Corniglia, for example, you begin with an hour-long climb up very steep steps, so it’s much better to come the other way, as we did. The Ginger and I went with another couple and despite the at-times challenging climbs, we had many laughs and it’s one of my all-time favourite trips.
3 Where to stay
We stayed in La Sosta, a lovely boutique hotel in the hills behind Levanto, but in retrospect, we would’ve been better off in one of the five villages. It doesn’t matter which one you choose as the trains go regularly and easily between all five. La Sosta was quiet but away from the action and a bit pricey, plus breakfast didn’t start till 8.30am and in the summer, you need to hit those tracks early to avoid baking like bruschetta as you trek. Next time, I’ll try to find something with a pool that overlooks the Mediterranean – we did pass a few and stopped to look longingly and drool a little every time.
4 What to eat
In Levanto, our favourite was Trattoria Centro on the main drag running parallel to the sea. We went there three times and when we ventured out somewhere new, it was a bust – so stick to what you know! In Monterosso, where we twice ended up post-walk and starving at lunchtime, we tried Cantina Di Miky and the place next door. Sitting on the seafront eating fritto misto and drinking ice-cold prosecco did wonders for the muscle ache. We also did a great wine tasting with Margretta at La Sosta – these grapes work hard to exist so close to the sea but the wine is good, particularly the vermentino.
5 Tips for trekkers
Jandals or high-heel sandals will not do it – and we saw some people trying. Sunscreen’s a must because much of the trail is exposed. Go early to beat the crowds. We’d heard you could walk slowly in single file in the busy months, so we were on the tracks by 9am and it was never a problem. Buy a Cinque Terre ticket at the train station, which gives you your train and bus fare, plus walking fee, and lets you use the loos for free. Oh, and pack paracetamol! If you’re not used to hiking up hill and down dale, your knees and back will thank you.