5 reasons to love WHANGAREI HEADS
Sebastian explores the winterless north on foot
Just outside Northland’s largest city and a little over two hours away from Auckland, rugged Whangarei Heads is a walker’s wonderland.
1Te Whara Track
From afar, the jagged, jungle-y peaks of the peninsula look like something out of
JurassicPark and the impression only intensifies in the beautiful Bream Head Scenic Reserve, where the remains of a prehistoric volcano are covered in bush. I recommend a stroll to Smuggler’s Bay, one of the most stunning beaches in the country, but to make the most of the craggy scenery, try the Te Whara Track. The many steps on the hilly seven-kilometre hike will help minimise your gluteus maximus, the sea views are spectacular and it feels like a real Indiana Jones-style adventure. Amid the rocky outcrops and thick subtropical rainforest, I imagined I could stumble across an ancient temple at any moment. I didn’t see any of the area’s many kiwi, but thanks to the pest-trapping efforts of the Bream Head Conservation Trust, there’s heaps of other birdlife. I spotted a toutouwai (North Island robin), a miromiro (tomtit), a korimako (bellbird) and tonnes of kereru.
2 Mt Manaia
A shorter but still scenic tramp, the well-maintained track to the summit of this sacred peak, believed to be the ancestor of many local hapu, climbs its way through gnarly old puriri trees and magnificent kauri. At 420m above sea level, it’s a bum buster, but consider Mt Manaia your stairway to heavenly views. From the jutting boulders at the top, the breathtaking panoramic vista over Whangarei Harbour instantly made me forget my aching muscles – the colour of the water up here is incredible. And a cheerful pint at the Mt Manaia Club at the bottom of the hill proved the perfect end to two hours of exertion.
3 Local kai
Another great place to grab a cold drink is the Parua Bay Tavern, which has its own brand of beer, super-friendly staff and a commanding view over the harbour. It’s a great place to while away an afternoon and I can vouch for the seafood chowder, the thought of which is now making my mouth water. Also in the bay is the New Day Café, which is full of European delicacies. I wish I lived closer so I could start every morning with one of their Danish smørrebrød sandwiches with smoked salmon!
4 Parua Bay Cottage
Just down the road from both eateries, this charming 1860s cottage features all the mod cons, including Wi-Fi, despite its antiquity. But the best part is the location. The cosy two-bedroom cottage sits in its own secluded cove, with a private beach and kayaks for exploring, and the surrounding bush is packed with birds, including tui, piwakawaka (fantails), pukeko and rosellas.
5 Mangawhai Heads
OK, it’s technically not in Whangarei Heads, but it has “heads” in the name and it was a delightful stop on my drive back to Auckland. The long stretch of white sand truly is a wonder, but my highlight was the must-do Mangawhai Cliffs Walkway, a two-hour hike that provides dramatic, Instagramfriendly coastal views through twisted old pohutukawa, toetoe plumes and pretty nikau palm forest. Go at low tide so you can return via the beach and get a closer look at the interesting rock formations below. Afterwards, head to Te Whai Bay Wines, where you can sip on sparkling rosé and scoff an antipasto platter amid the vineyards.